Holy Smokes - we are in Varanasi!
Trip Start Jun 07, 2008
191Trip End Jun 28, 2009
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Where I stayed
We are staying right next to the Ganges River - from our room I can see lots of water buffalo, lounging in the river and roaming around. I can also see lots of people doing all sorts of things, like two men cutting other men's hair, some women and children bathing at a public water pump, some women collecting cow manure and putting it into bowls on their heads, some girls my age picking through a huge pile of garbage (mom says these are rag pickers) and some people sitting outside watching a TV
This afternoon, we are going on a boat ride down the river, to see the ghats (stairs) where people come to wash.
Okay, tonight was C-R-A-Z-Y!!!!! We took rickshaws through the dirt streets of Varanasi to the market area next to the ghats and the Ganges. It was a wild rickshaw ride because there were so many people, rickshaws, mopeds, cows, dogs, cars, and people going all directions. And the streets were very narrow and in terrible condition. When we got to the market, it was already dark and the market was very crowded. There were all kinds of shops. Indrajit took us down to the ghats, where they setting up for the aarti ceremony (more on this later) and there were some protestors with signs protesting that the river, which is now the national river of India, should be cleaner.
We got on a big wooden rowboat and a guy rowed us out onto the river. We rowed down the river towards another ghat. Along the way, we saw little candles floating in the river. These are what people put in the river to pray for someone. I saw a fire burning on the shore further down the river like a huge bonfire
When Hindus die, they don't call it dying, they call it being reborn. They believe that if you are cremated next to the Ganges river, you will go straight to heaven. And if the wood for the fire is sandelwood, then you have extra special luck in heaven. About 200 people a day are burned in Varanasi, but you can also be burned in any other place near a river or water, because you have to give the physical part of the body back to the earth.
After the body is burned, guys take the ashes and throw them in the river. This seems like a very bad job and also very sad. People from the lowest caste have to do this job. (They usually search the ashes before they throw them in the river because sometimes people leave rings or valuables on the body.) But you are not supposed to be sad or cry when someone you know dies if you are Hindu, because you have to let them go and crying will keep them here. After the person dies, he may come back as another person, or he can go directly to heaven. For ten days after the person dies, his family members can not eat or drink and no one can accept any food from their house. They have to also sleep on the floor and not do anything nice. On the 13th day, they have a memorial for the person who died. Then they can eat again.
It was sort of sad to watch all of this, especially at night sitting on the river. It was like nothing I have EVER seen before.
After we watched the cremations, we rowed back to the Aarti Ceremony, where they had about six priests dressed in orange (the holy color) sitting in front of tables with all sorts of things
We took rickshaws back to the hotel - it was WILD riding very fast down the bumpy, potholed streets in the pitch dark. Before we left the ghats, we saw lots of people begging and sleeping - lots of people come here to die or to get money because they are so poor. Lots of the buildings in Varanasi are old and falling apart and it is very run down and dirty. But it is the holiest place for Hindus and they must come here at least once in their life. I am still freaked out that people throw the bones in the river - it is definitely not good for the water! Tomorrow morning we are going to watch people bathe in the river - after tonight I can't imagine doing that EVER!