On the Ilala
Trip Start
Sep 17, 2007
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245
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Trip End
Oct 08, 2008
Likoma Island,
Malawi
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
The Ilala does a circuit north and south along the lake, therefore docking in each of the stops twice a week, going in different directions. It is the main method of transportation for Malawians on the lake, and for some places, one of the only links to the outside world. We planned to take it south from Nkhata Bay to Monkey Bay at the southern tip of the lake
ticket queue
. When we saw the prices we changed our mind. Transport is cheap in Malawi (although it has more than doubled due to petrol prices in the last year or so). But taking first class on the Ilala costs quite a chunk of change. I looked longingly at the 2nd and 3rd class prices (which were about 10 times less), but we were warned that it wouldn't be very fun. So we settled on Chipoka and waited for the Ilala to come to town.Going south, the Ilala arrives around noon on Sundays, and leaves at 8pm that evening. We saw it chug merrily into the harbour that morning, and went to buy a ticket later that afternoon. The arrival of the Ilala anywhere is cause for some commotion, and there were a bunch of vendors selling food and enormous quantities of cargo being taken on and off the ship all day. We finally boarded around six o'clock that evening. We had to push our way through the mass of people gathered around the dock, dodge some very long pieces of timber, and climb through the 3rd class...area. It was piled several bags high with various pieces of luggage and covered with a couple layers of humanity. I was slightly glad I hadn't pushed harder to be crammed down here. We moved upwards to the top deck, first class deck. It was quiet and roomy. Several travellers had staked out various benches with sleeping bags. One guy had pitched his tent on the deck. The difference between the decks was startling, but from up here we had a bird's-eye-view of the commotion going on below
eyeing the big boat
. We chose a spot and settled in. There was a bar up here selling cheap drinks. Downstairs was the "restaurant" and the first class cabins. Below that were the locals. Around 8 the Ilala blasted her horn and cruised out of Nkhata Bay. We were on our way.There wasn't much to do that night besides go to bed. As we left the safety of land, we passed through an area of the lake lit of with hundreds of tiny lights, floating like fireflies in the darkness. As we got closer they resolved into lamps being held by men in their little dugout canoes. They were fishing: the cichlids were attracted to the light.
We fell asleep to the pulsing of the engine and the splashing of the waves. Tomorrow we would wake up at Likoma Island.
A beautiful red sun rose over the island that morning as we anchored in the bay. When there isn't a dock (which is most of the time), the Ilala uses its two lifeboats to ferry passengers to and fro. The lifeboats clearly state, "Max. 22 Persons." This is routinely ignored. They cram as many people as they can in the boats, and every one of those people is carrying a good portion of their belongings in huge wrapped packages
first class deck bar
. Sometimes the boat is so low in the water that it looks like a small wave will swamp it. Apparently the staff have had plenty of practice. When I woke they were loading one of the lifeboats with colorfully dressed women in a very good mood. As the boat chugged off, they all started singing together, and the sun rose a little higher in the sky. There is always a giant crowd gathered to meet the passengers from the Ilala. Some are there to greet friends and relatives, but most are probably there because it is the most interesting thing that happens during the week.Likoma Island and its companion, which is too difficult to spell, are specks of paradise in the middle of the lake. The only problem is you need to take the Ilala to get to them, which means you have to stay there for a week. But we got to see them anyway. For quite a long time. We were only supposed to be there for a couple hours, but as the afternoon stretched on we realized that we were going to be staying here for a while. I entertained myself by watching the colorful collection of boats come and go. Some were private boats coming to take big loads of cargo off the Ilala. Others were private ferries assisting the two lifeboats. And some just came over to say high. Sometimes these boats were lined up three or four deep, swarming the Ilala like a pirate boarding party. It was pretty fun to watch.
first class deck
Erin spent most of her time sleeping, so I took pictures of her as well.We finally did leave, several hours late, and were on the water just in time for a beautiful sunset on the water. We read books and munched on snacks and enjoyed the nice weather and cool breeze.
~Travis
