Beer + fish = Yangshuo specialty

Trip Start Sep 17, 2007

118

272

Trip End Oct 08, 2008

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Flag of China Yangshuo, China
Sunday, February 24, 2008

Our arrival in Yangshuo was approaching damp, in addition to which we got into town in the mid afternoon. We had to defend ourselves from a scam before even reaching the town. A little outside of town, the bus is stopped by a tout and the bus driver tells us this is Yangshuo and we need to get off. We had been warned about this and refused. Our tout came onto the bus and told us that this was the only place the bus stopped in town and we had to get off. We said we would continue on to the bus station. He said there wasn't a bus station and we were new to this town so how would we know? We ignored him. Finally he left, and sure enough, we drove for a couple more minutes and then pulled into the bus station. The bus driver wouldn't meet my eyes. One of the worst things about travelling is the people who lie to your face.

While the weather was relatively good for Guilin and Ping'an, the forecast was quite discouraging for our short stay in the stunning landscape of Yangshuo. We therefore donned our not-entirely-waterproof raincoats and did what exploring we could in the city proper. More like town, actually.

Yangshuo has become a backpacker hangout. It's got a laid back atmosphere, stunning scenery, and a million restaurants and souvenir shops. Even with all this, it seems that many backpackers are opting to stay several kilometers outside of town, the better to soak up the countryside. Also, if you're not always in the town, which is entirely navigable by walking, you get to ride your bike all over and pretend you're Chinese.

from the hostel roof

This only backfires when someone talks to you and you're brought back to reality.

But, as I said, the weather and the time prevented Travis and I from becoming too ambitious. Nevertheless, we had a lovely time. Our hostel, which was not on Xi Jie, and therefore not so much in Backpacker Central, was less than five minutes from the Li river. There's a lovely sort of park/bank where several of us more intrepid tourists (mostly Chinese tourists, as seems to be the case everywhere in China) hopped on rocks, admired the rushing waterfall (it was engorged by the rain, you know), and tried to see as many karst peaks as possible. There were also several women out in the river washing clothes. I think it must have been freezing cold, but no one seems to mind that when washing clothes.

We saw some lovely karst peaks, although visibility was not great, what with the clouds and all. Travis was all agog, and declared several times that this was his favorite place and the rocks were the coolest thing in the universe. The peaks do look really strange. Mostly the ground is completely flat and then this huge limestone rock sticks up. Only this happens hundreds and hundreds of times. It's like water has rushed through and the peaks are the only things that survived it. Everything else was flattened. It's like nothing you've ever seen before and you instantly love it. Love it, love it.

So we wandered along the river, along the tourist market with loads of scarves, giant fans, hats, batik, and general Chinese kitsch.

across the river

By the time we got down Xi Jie (West Street), a completely pedestrian street, we were looking for dinner. One of the hostel staff recommended a place for beerfish (pijiuyu), the local specialty, but this turned out to be way, way, way outside our price range. We ended up at Minnie Mao's, a cute little restaurant with Minnie Mouse wearing a Communist hat. For just over five dollars we got a giant fish in vegetables and a massive amount of beer-oil sauce. Travis took the first bite: "It tastes like beer." I tried to take a bite. It's difficult eating a whole fish. I am not a fan of fish bones. I ate the cheek, which is supposed to be a delicacy in China. It was quite good. Very tender. Then I tried to get the eye, which is also supposed to be a delicacy. I didn't know what I was going to do with it when I got it, but I tried nonetheless. All I managed to do was make my chopsticks slimy gross. Eyes do not have a great consistency, just so you know. In the end I think Travis ate most of the fish, but I didn't mind. I'm actually not a big fan of fish, but you've always got to try things. The beer sauce was strong, but it did taste good. Beware the tiny red peppers. They're ridiculously spicy. The middle part of the fish is best. Beware of scales...the clear ones under the dark ones are the trickiest. And don't turn the fish over to get at the meat underneath, lest the next time you're in a boat it capsizes!

Erin