Second Day in NKR
Trip Start
Aug 10, 2006
1
2
5
Trip End
Aug 14, 2006
Gandzasar,
Azerbaijan
Friday, August 11, 2006
Anna called the bus station to ask about buses to Ganzasar. One goes at 15:30 at 1pm I can buy a ticket (I will, there might be lot of people going and I wouldn't find a seat).
And so I decided to walk around Stepanakert a bit more. I confirmed my yesterdays impressions about the city being quite European. Slowly I directed my steps to the bus station. And lucky I did - the bus doesn't leave at 15:30 but 14:30 and you cant buy tickets in advance. So I picked up my things at Anna´s, returned to the station and hopped on a bus going to Vank
01_gandzasar
. I was a bit nervous because I knew I am in the last bus going to, and therefore from Vank, which means I will have to stay there overnight. The trip wasn't very pleasant. Everyone kept talking to me, I didn't understand, they were laughing and I didn't know wether they were laughing at me. Luckily the journey didn't take too long.I was told that there is a hotel Tsitanik in Vank, where you can stay for free. I didn't really understand what would be the point of a hotel where you wouldn't have to pay, and I was also smiling about the similarity of words "Tsitanik" and "Titanic". Well, and I was right. It was a boat-shaped building near the river. A very one noble too. "That place wont be for free" I thought to myself the moment I saw it. Receptionist told me that a room is 5000/night (10 EUR). I wasn't very happy but I could pay that. Anyway I asked, not really expecting a positive answer, wether there was another cheaper place to stay. "No there isn't" said a nearby-standing girl, translating into English the receptionist´s answer. "But this girl here says you can stay at her house if you like" she went on. After a short conversation in Armenian the English speaking girl said "oh yeah, or you can stay in the hotel for free, it is no problem." "How come?" I asked. "Because my uncle built this place, he lives in America and he has built it for free, for the people. It used to be free for everyone, now just for locals, but no matter, you can stay"
I didn't argue and longing for a bit of privacy (after three weeks in the school, sharing room with the other volunteers) I opted for "staying in the hotel" rather than "staying at a girl´s house"
02_gandzasar close up
. I got a beautiful room with a balcony. I left my things in the room and happily headed to nearby Gandzasar. 2 km long climb up a hill. Not very steep, but it was hot as hell. But with frequent rests, lot of water and short breaks for "berries-eating" I managed it. The sight of Gandzasar monastery was rewarding. Gandzasar was beautiful. They equal it to Aghtamar church I saw when I was in Turkey, on lake Van. Gandzasar offers a splendid view over surrounding mountains, covered with forests. The area around the monastery is very well kept, clean, it felt like an oasis of calm and peace. I remembered the story I was told in Stepanakert museum, about the war in Karabakh, and I found it extremely hard to imagine. The monastery felt like no bombs could hurt it. Yet it was bombed during the war and one tower was destroyed. I felt safe in the church´s shadow, and I hoped that the 1996 war was the last bad thing this place had to undergo.
Svetlana, a woman from Martuni (village in Karabakh) who lives in Israel, started to talk to me. We both came here by foot and we decided to go down together. But we waited for the temperature to drop a bit. We talked about faith, people, Karabakh. Svetlana is a very religious woman, but I don't find it disturbing this time, even if I normally do. We live in the same hotel a tomorrow we are taking the same bus to Stepanakert. Svetlana continues to Mirtuni and Amaras, another important monastery. I am thinking of joining her. I think that Amaras in another place one should visit.
