Succumbing to the rising tides

Trip Start Apr 08, 2007
1
35
144
Trip End Oct 01, 2007


Loading Map
Map your own trip!
Map Options
Show trip route
Hide lines
shadow

Flag of Italy  ,
Monday, May 14, 2007

Well, we aren't doing too hot with the night train option so far. Our overnighter to Venice from Nice turned out to be one serious stop-and-go experience. After having left about 20 minutes behind schedule - despite it starting from Nice! - it seemed to make a stop every half hour or so for no apparent reason, frequently powering down while it was at it. The compartment was stuffy, with a broken window that wouldn't open, and our French neighbors next door decided for some reason that 5am was an ideal time to talk and laugh like it were midday. Needless to say, I didn't sleep especially well, so my first few hours in Venice were a tad cranky.

I also expected to get a much needed shower first thing after checking in, what with all the the tromping around we did in Eze and Monaco yesterday. So much for that too: the hostel doesn't allow anyone to get into the rooms until 11:30. Thus we had to pass our time wandering around Venice sticky and tired. Incidentally, it was pretty muggy and warm upon our arrival here too. That, plus the gruesomely, offensively expensive state of the city now, made me even crankier, especially after shelling out €30 for bloody train reservations. What exactly are we getting with this first-class train pass again?

Well, a good shower and general clean up made a world of a difference. Once fully refreshed, we hit the city of water. Mayu has been absolutely enthralled with the place; it's easily among her very favorite of the places we've visited. Me, it's the third visit and the novelty's worn off some. She's still not convinced that one day here is enough, but we don't really have time for anything more anyhow. I'm sure by noon tomorrow she'd be asking "what else is there to do here?"

Venice is lovely, it's just overtouristed and, well, sinking fast. For the first time tonight I got to actually witness the flooding. Mayu and I walked out to Piazza San Marco to see the night lights, only to find that 1) they weren't on, and 2) there was a layer of water stretching across almost the entire square. Growing gradually deeper too, as we soon realized. It was interesting watching the combined feelings of amazement and panic among the visiting tourists. The local waiter I overheard talking to one simply shrugged his shoulders about it and said he didn't think it was ever going to be solved. Given the way things are looking, I may have to agree. Venice will probably be under water in 50 years, whether the flood gate system is finally put in or not.

All the same, we've had an enjoyable day. Despite the jaw-dropping price of €6 a ticket, we took a vaporetto on the Grand Canal so Mayu could have a proper introduction to the place. We even lucked out and got front seats on one side, which allowed us to snap away and take in the scenery without interference or jostling about. Once in Piazza San Marco, we did the standard trip up to the top of the campanile, which strangely took longer to get out of than to get in. The views were prime though, and very well-timed as it suddenly turned cloudy not even 30 minutes afterwards. We also stopped in at the Basilica di San Marco and saw the Byzantine interior, something which I somehow neglected on previous trips. So, hey, I even got to see something new. Other than that, we marched over the Ponte Rialto and took in the views, then slowly got semi-lost on the return leg to our hostel.

We've finally managed to secure reservations in both Florence and Rome. It's costing us a fair chunk - €60 to €70 a night - but at least it's finally taking care of. For tonight we're stuck in separate dorms . . . the first time this trip, but an inconvenience nonetheless. Here's hoping none of the cohabitants are too noisy in the night.
Print this entry Venice hotels