Culture Shock

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Trip Start Apr 04, 2005 Previous
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  Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica
Tuesday, April 26, 2005

So we get dropped off at the bus station- a different one than last time- SCARY- even at 5:30 in the morning. So glad that Wilson was there to drop us off at the right bus. Joy slept and I looked out the window on the way to Manuel Antonio Nature Reserve. The steep and winding climb revealed a new side of Costa Rica- the one you see in magazines. As the rising sun kissed the kelly green hillsides I was awestruck by the beauty. It was like you would imagine Cambodia to look like, from the movies. As we went around a corner there it was, a larger than life statue of Jesus, draped in cloth with his arms extended to welcome the world- you know the pose. It seemed as if an ethereal glow was coming off of the stark white statue although I know it was the reflection of the sun coming over the hills. What a powerful image that was. It made me smile! (despite the fact that there was a woman standing- (and holding on for dear life)-next to me with her butt right in my face.) As we continued to climb it was like there were rolling hills of dinosaur size broccoli florets covering everything. Layers and layers of different shades of green. Rivers with floating crocodiles you could see plainly from the rickety one vehicle bridges that frequented the 4 hour ride. Tidy little villages with bright colored casas lining the road. Locals in their shaded chairs watching traffic go by. Mix and match shacks of tin, recycled pieces of wood, and old tires with clean laundry drying in the light morning breeze. A farmer resembling a raisin with legs out in the field with a machete hacking to the left and right nonstop. I thought how his shoulder must hurt and what a tough old guy, to literally live off the land in that blistering heat. Rows and rows of palm trees for the palm oil export business. It was a lot to take in. Tons of streetside fruit markets and dogs and people on bikes and kids playing dominoes in the dirt. Amazing, different, and immensely beautiful.

We finally arrive at the park and step out to vendors, vendors and more vendors. Directly behind them the waves are crashing down on a beautiful, if not somewhat crowded, beach. Restaurants line the clean streets and the salty smell of the ocean hit us immediately. About 20 seconds later so did the humidity. WOW!!!

We went to find a hotel and were greeted very quickly by a local who told us he had a hotel up the street for half the price we were quoted at some of the other places, so we went to take a look. His name was Heiro, and he had called Manuel Antonio his home for all of his 28 years. Although the hotel was nice it was a little far off the beaten path and we didn't want to walk that far after dark so we politely thanked him and said that we would like to be a little closer to town for safety purposes. He offered to make a call to his friend Bob, an englishman who put us up in a nice room with a beautiful flower filled patio and a swimming pool.

Met tons of people and explored the beach. Laid out for awhile until the heat became too much, then regressed to the Marlin Restaurant's prime corner location. We secured the perfect table for people watching in the shade and had lunch and a cocktail, complete with the pineapple slice and umbrella. Very tropicana.

We had agreed to the invitation from Heiro to join him and his friends and family for an outdoor dinner at their hotel, so we went back to the room to soak in the pool for awhile before cleaning up. I know, sounds rough, eh? :) We were joking that the worst thing we had to worry about at that moment was how to steer our floaties for the best location in the pool... Life is good.

Dinner was fabulous and afterwards we enjoyed the view from the roof of the cliffside hotel. It was a full moon and I cannot express in words how amazingly beautiful it was. It filled my soul with contentment at that moment. Breathing in FRESH air, sans the overwhelming smell of exaust fumes I have been inhaling for the last 2 weeks. We then went to "the Party" as it was deemed by everyone passing us on the beach asking us if we were attending. Now this was quite an experience for me and like nothing I have ever seen or done. I was debating whether to include this portion in the journal but I feel like it is necessary. This portion is not for kids, so to my sisters, please don't share this with my little muffins. I figure if Joy is going to tell her parents, who are missionaries, that I can trust my friends and family to accept it, as it is all part of the experience. So, here goes.

There is a whole different culture that goes on here. This "party" was the only thing going on in town and they close the other restaurants and bars. There were about 300 people there all under the age of 35. Joy and I were the only grinka's there. (a grinka is a white american girl) There is a machismo that the men have in vacation destinations and also the stereotype that all Gringa's are easy targets for a one night stand. The scantily clad local girls were not too fond of the presence of Joy and myself, but the hombres certainly wouldn't leave us alone. I began to feel very uncomfortable but Joy was used to this sort of thing and assured me it would be ok. The discoteque was loud and fairly empty at this point and there were tons of people standing around trying to look cool. I started to have a panic attack because I was so out of my element and just plain old uncomfortable. I had to take a walk out of there for awhile so Joy came with me. After awhile I said it was ok to go back and we got a table outside on the outskirts so I could watch what was going on.

From the shadows I could see a lot of drug use and also the obvious solicitation of prostitution that is legal here. People selling and buying and using all kinds of drugs. I stayed tucked safely in my corner for the duration of the evening but Joy braved it and danced and talked with the locals. What an interesting thing to see. It sounds really scary, but at the same time it was very intriguing. Some of the people that had been at the dinner came and sat at the table and had the patience to struggle through broken conversation with me. It ended up to be fine, but not my idea of a good time. More of a learning experience than anything. I am glad that I did it so now I know some things to look out for over here. There were no fights or anything and after awhile the dance floor filled up and everyone seemed to genuinely be having a great time. I would never have made it a minute in there without Joy so I am glad to have had her there so I could safely experience the scene.

I learned that I am totally insecure when removed from my comfort zone! I was surprised at my reaction but am sure it was normal. I just felt extremely intimidated by the hundreds of locals doing things that they do all of the time but that are unfamiliar to me. What a trip. So, anyway, we eventually were escorted to the main strip where we opted to thank and leave our friendly escorts and head home for some more sleep.

Day two was great and we paid the seven bucks to enter the Park, which you have to wade through a creek to get to. It has three beaches and tons of animals. Monkeys, sloths, birds, lizards, and snakes. We ended up at the first beach parked next to Old Man Iggy, an iguana that was camoflaged on a nearby log. The waves were incredible and there were only a few people on the long, lonely beach. I also realized I think I have a true fear of the ocean. The waves were ominous to me and I went out a couple of times but once again was washed ashore by "the big one". Joy laughed so hard because when I got out so was one boob and I was covered in sand and there was at least a cup of sand in each side of my bikini top. But I refused to get back in at that point. The sweat was dripping tirelessly from my brow and lip and everywhere else so we headed back to get food and shower before our bus ride home.

It was truly a unique and cultural experience and I wouldn't trade it. I sat in the front seat of the bus which I will never do again for sure. I made it home without puking and Joy left in the morning. I am going back with people from my school this weekend and am looking forward to seeing the most beautiful place I have ever been one more time.

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