Stranger in a strange land
Trip Start
Apr 04, 2005
1
4
43
Trip End
Jul 18, 2005
San Joaquin de Flores,
Costa Rica
Tuesday, April 12, 2005
As we were flying over Costa Rica, I noticed all of these lights; little orange beacons, tucked on the hillsides in haphazard rows and clusters. Apparently the type of lightbulb they use here is different so instead of a white/yellow they are more of an amber/orange, and the cities all glowed warmly, as if lit by firelight. It was beautiful, albeit kind of halloweenie. Haha- I said weenie.
Anyway, it is definitely a very different culture here but many things are the same. I made it through immigration and customs with no problem. Our flight was late so I was worried that I wouldn't be able to find my "guy with the sign" who was supposed to be taking me to my host family. I exited after customs and there were probably about 20 people holding signs with names on them... I took the time to read them all, and not finding my name I started to get a sinking feeling in my stomach. I went around the corner and, lo and behold, more signs.. About 75 or 80. It is humid as hell and everyone is shouting and running around and I only wish I had a picture of my face at that moment. But one of the first guys I saw, Fernando, was waiting right in front for me. He had another lady with a 5 year old who was also going with us, but to a different location. We loaded up and after much confusion on my part with the porter- who kept saying something in Spanish and then teep, teep. To which I kept replying no thankyou gracias... OH- tip!! Sorry! Right, tip. You carry my bags I give you a tip. Same as in America... duh.
So after a short drive we start making turns down into a dark industrial area. Dirt roads, big factories making clanking noises. Kind of gothic, like something in The Crow, or the industrial area of Trent. I don't see any houses at all so I am wondering where we are going, hoping and praying that Fernando wasn't some crazy axe murderer who had killed my real driver. Then Fernando says familia, familia, and gestures towards the back of the car where the lady and her daughter are sitting. So I am thinking thank God- it is her host family, cuz this is kind of creepy. Is that mean?
We pull up to a tiny building dwarfed between these other huge buildings. It is surrounded by an 8 or 10 foot red metal fence. Uh-oh. Red fence. The description of my host family that the school gave me specified something about a red fence. Fernando honked, and out came Wilson and Marianita, my host parents.
After closer examination I realize that not only do the windows all have a half inch rebar grid over them but that she is using a key to open the compound gate entrance. Still trying to be unfazed I smile Hola and take my bags in, a little startled by the loud clank behind me as the gate is closed and locked. Then I saw the second locking gate right in front of the entrance to the house. Just slightly disconcerted I went inside. Another loud clank.
After much nodding and smiling and them talking verrrrryyy sllooowwwly to me in Spanish I think they realized I speak nada espanol. So we tried to communicate for about 10 minutes and then they showed me my room, which at first glance looked perfect. Twin bed, window, shelves for my clothes and my own little bathroom with shower! GREAT! They leave me to unpack and I start to evaluate my surroundings. There is a door that leads outside that has not one, not 2, but 3 deadbolts and 2 cheesy sliding locks. One of the deadbolts is locked from the inside with a key that I don't have a copy of. Not that that makes much of a difference considering I can see about an eighth of an inch gap most of the way around the ill fitting door. For ventilation purposes, maybe. Did I mention the humidity? Checking the window- yup- rebar grid. OK, no problem. At least nobody is getting in. I brush my teeth and need to set my clock so I open my door to go to the kitchen to see the time and this is where it got a little weird for me last night. I am shocked to see another gate like the one outside only this one is yellow, shut and locked with a key. So basically I am a prisoner in the room until they get up and let me out. By the way, have I mentioned how humid it is??? But there is no way in hell I am going to open my window at this point. Thank God for the gap in the door or I quite possibly might have suffocated. Killed a spider and a squito and other than that no bugs. I tried not to think what would happen if there was a fire and laid down to try to sleep. It sounded like someone was practicing heavy breathing right outside of my window but after holding my breath in a self induced panic for about what seemed like 10 minutes I realized it was the periodic release of steam from one of the surrounding factories. To calm myself down I read the Dalai Lama book I got at the airport I eventually fell into a fitful sleep.
The road construction or factory noise started up at 4 am or so. Which I thought was loud until Parasito, the family bird, woke up around 5 and I don't know much about parrots but he seemed a little ticked off. Eventually I heard Marianita cooking in the kitchen and opened my door, feeling much better that they had unlocked my gate. Breakfast was fabulous- eggs with ham, rice with beans onions and cilantro, homemade tortillas, fresh cantaloupe, mango and strawberries, coffee and freshly blended papaya beverage. Marianita's mama was there and we all laughed and tried to make conversation.
I did the dishes and cleaned the kitchen. Marianita was doing laundry at this big sink with a built in washboard and a scrub brush, one thing at a time. She just got done sweeping and mopping the house. Now she is boiling a chicken and chopping vegetables. Ohhh-sweet Marianita just brought me a fresca-which is a delicious blended fruit juice drink, like a fruit smoothie. Wilson is doing household chores. They are hard workers and seem to take pride in their home. They have the day off today because of the national holiday.
They always laugh and use the word loca when talking about me, which I know means crazy girl. They likened me to their 21 year old daughter who I will meet later today. I really like them and feel comfortable with them. They are easy to laugh and I am glad.
Today I will try to explore my neighborhood and walk to the supermarcado. I need some immodium- already! Damn that Montezuma! That is it for now. Don't worry, mom. So far so good!
Ok- night time now and I met Rebecca- very sweet and cute and friendly. She is 21 and speaks a tiny bit of English. Went for a walk with Marianita around San Joaquin de Flores- about a mile or so. Come to find out that my school is only 4 blocks away. I am not worried about my walk to school at all. It is close and people hang out on their porches and are walking all around so I will just be one of the crowd. Feel better, sis? J
Also, the neighborhood isn't nearly as scary during the day. Just very different. We went to the grocery store, the pharmacy and the meat market. People are everywhere and I tell you one thing- everyone drives like a crazy person.
Another thing that stands out about the culture is the importance of family.
They eat together, sing karaoke together (no I didn't try- I am saving La Bamba for later) laugh together. In fact, it is really normal for children to stay with their parents even into their 30's if they are not married.
Grandma Berta was over today and the whole family loaded up to drive her home. She is a plenty capable senora but is absolutely catered on hand and foot by her family. It is really sweet. Berta lives in a really nice neighborhood, comparatively, and they have gates too so I don't feel intimidated by them anymore. In fact, everything has a gate on it, so now it seems fairly normal.
Her house was a bustle of family members coming and going, and everyone is very nice and friendly. Very welcoming. They are constantly trying to give me food so I don't know how well this summer diet thing is going to work. Thank God I brought the ELASTIBANDS.
It is strange to not speak the native language and I am quite surprised to find that hardly anyone knows English. So far I haven't seen anyone taller than me but also I haven't seemed to draw any attention from the locals so hopefully I don't stand out as much as I thought I would. But it is, after all, only day 1 of 90. By the way, have I mentioned the humidity???
