Trip Start Aug 05, 2005
Trip End Aug 21, 2005

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Thursday, August 11, 2005

Call 7:30, bus 8:30- the usual and on the road again

Driving south out of Chiclayo on the Pan Am & stop at digging site of San Jose de Morro. This is a grave yard used over years by subsequent cultures- some mass graves- not big pyramids. Some accessories, but not rich grave sites. Active dig for 15 years. A few folks take advantage of an artisan selling pottery to pick up some very nice replications.

Then we head further south to Paijan where we lunch at the Posada Sol de Paijan, a hacienda named for their star walker. We have some more Pisco Sours and see a demo of some walking horses. It's a strange step. A few folks get on board and try out the smooth gait. Then we have a really nice lunch- some ad hoc dancing afterwards.

Back on the road south gain, eventually turning of through a cane field- with much big bus maneuvering on narrow streets to get to the arch. complex called El Brujo- a site consisting of about 6 mounds. We visit the major site which was used by consecutive cultures and rebuilt 6 times over the eons, each slightly overlaying the previous. This site is noted for art work that was saved by being buried by backfill for the next level- the newest levels were the one that were lost.

The site is located right on the Pacific Ocean and still had religious significance up to the common era when it was used by "witch doctors" to perform rituals with mushrooms. Apparently, their rituals frequently used accessories looted from the site. "Brujo" meaning witch doctor. We pass through a cute little town of Magdalena Cao next to the site. It's very clean % attempts to "beautify" with trees etc.. The northern towns in general appear cleaner than Lima.

We also hike up the Huaca Negra or black mound which Dan informs us was a "midden"- arch. slang for garbage heap. Nearly everyone follows him up this somewhat steep climb of black soil, but the view is pretty good! All along one side is the ocean shoreline and in the slight distance, the major mound surrounded by cultivated fields. The breeze is great- right off the ocean though getting chilly as the sun is setting.

We get back on the road heading south and finally reach Trujillo. Our hotel is being remodeled and the reconstruction noises finally end while we're having dinner in the hotel. We're right on the Plaza Armas, so even at 10 pm there's still a lot of traffic noise. They appear to need to honk like New Yorkers in order to drive.

Tomorrow we stay in Trujillo, so I get some laundry done. Also able to cash one traveler's check- not able to do so in Chiclayo and thought I might have to resort to ATM. Safe for a while.
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