Last chance to see Sucre, then an overnight bus

Trip Start Nov 03, 2012
Trip End Dec 31, 2012

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Flag of Bolivia  ,
Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Our final day in Sucre began with a breakfast in the Wasi Masi kitchens and pouring over the lonely planet guide for things to do in La Paz and thoughts on the next step, closer to the Bolivian border.
Coffee was thick and strong as usual and our digestive systems seemed to be in their best state of repair for some time so we easily made our way through the basics and Alexis even had some watermelon.

The plan for the day was to locate the black market, visit a cafe', locate one or two of the cultural spots we missed yesterday before an early dinner and getting to the bus station the catch our bus in the overnight to La Paz.

The black market was easy to miss, even when circled on our map. Mainly because it takes up an entire city block, yet is only accessible from the north while only noticeable from the east and above.
A hectare in size it is a covered market specializing in clothing. Anything from fairy costumes for little girls to business suits for men.

On our way back to the city square Tina located a store that held the style she wanted for 80BOB ($14AUD) which began a 'we are in our last day in Sucre, we must buy stuff' panic. Nearing the city square we reached the artisan market which got a rough going over with the purchase of .... ...

Lunch time was upon us an we sought it familiarity once again. First by spending half an hour in the main square listening to a violinist, buying wrist bands from VERY old women (8BOB/$1.20 each) and convincing a shoe shine boy that hiking boots do not require polish but we will purchase Sucre's working child's magazine (3BOB/.50c)

Across the square and we ate a meal at what had become a daily rest stop, Abis Cafe'. The meal was this time focused on and the coffee drunk while hot as the owner was nowhere to be seen.
After which we walked east of the town square before turning north to Sucre's city of the dead, the 'Cementario General' which was on a scale I was not familiar with.
High rise mausoleums storing people 5 high in walls that ran the entire length of the place. Fascinating and grim.
Grim because, although we knew Sucre was an old city, we found it hard to locate any names pre 1960's. where had all the old graves gone?

We walked for an hour, before the walls and monuments to ordinary people, across from the rich and successful family mausoleums to the ones seemingly entirely made up of professors. Buffy would have had a field day.

Walking back towards town we stopped at two more cultural spots. San Felipe de Nen, where between other bejeweled riches of the Catholic Church lay the two waxed covered 'incorruptible' saints.
The Museo de Eclesiactico Catedralico was where we saw the bejeweled Mary. Adorned with thousands of pearls and gems by the adoring faithful.

Our walk had taken us up to the time where an early dinner at the Amsterdam bar before heading off to the terminal for our overnight bus trip.
There we met two Dutch and a German traveler having a friendly discussion about the football game on the screen (at half time, Netherlands and Germany were 0-0) so, over a jug of Sangria we joined in.
During the break we discussed travel options but found again, we were doing everything arse backwards. Seems everyone goes to Peru, THEN Bolivia.
The game came back on and we watched a rather non thrilling game (a friendly where most of the good players were 'sick') end in a nil all draw while we ate spaghetti.

At 6 we Auf Wiedrseined our way out of there, didn't mention the war and went to Masi Wasi to pick up our bags and wait while a taxi was called for the terminus.
In 15 mins and 15BOB ($2.50AUD) later we were at the main bus terminal seeking the counter for the Trans Copacabana MEM company (had to get it right, there are at least 3 'copacabana' bus companies out there) where we exchanged the voucher we bought from the 'Joy Ride' company in the center of town for 300BOB for a ticket to La Paz worth 220BOB.
Ahhh. Middle men. Always with their fingers in your pies.
It works out to be a $12 admin fee on a $30 product.

Oh well. We were set.
Went downstairs to pay our 2.50BOB exit fee from Sucre and went to the platform to await our 1930 bus to La Paz.
Some moments of confusion came when the bus in our spot was definitely less than what we had paid for, but it left at 1900 and was replaced by a Cama bus. Not as fancy as the others we had traveled, nor from the company which the lonely planet recommended (El Dorado) but the guy at the Joy Ride office said it was the only one worth dealing with.

So it must be alright.

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