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One or two fascinating facts about Arequipa.
Entry 9 of 19 | show all | print this entry |
Now we have left I can confess that Arequipa is very prone to earthquakes. The dates recorded are 1784, 1868, 1958, 1960 and 2001. When you look in awe at wonderfully arched ceilings between narrow alleys, a guide will say ´fuerte´ (strong) and you wonder how earthquake-proof they are. In 2001 the Cathedral was completely destroyed and yet now it stands proudly at the side of the ´Plaza de Armas´ challenging nature to do its worst. Most of the city has been rebuilt at sometime or another, including the Santa Caterina Convent which is so beautiful and it was due to the 1960 disaster that a new building was finally provided for the nuns and the old one opened for public viewing.
The wonderful two storied, arched collonades which complete the square on the other three sides have been so cleverly reconstructed it is impossible to know what, if any survived, which year, or how much of it has been rebuilt, but I have learned that the lower arches are constructed of granite and the upper salar (local, white volcanic stone). In fact the vast majority of the Arequipa has been constructed using this versatile stone, which lends itself to the intricate carvings that are a feature here.
A couple of other useless facts. Inside the Convent and similar religious structures the walls are painted either blue or ochre ... ochre denotes a public area, blue private. A typical upper class house is built surrounding a large courtyard, which usually has a fountain in the centre, but religious houses favour a garden and secular a paved area.
The local river is called ´The Chile´ which is a Quechua word meaning cold and this, apparently, is also where Chile, the country, got its name.
So, for once, it was with regret that I said goodbye to this lovely, brave city, but it is essential to move on and now I am going through the same awed learning process here in Cusco. What an incredible place! A central square which can boast five churches, all in a reddish brick and a double whammy with a total of four bell towers, or was it six! I lose count. The inside market here, quite different to those in La Paz, crowded, narrow lanes, masses of meat on open display, (a lady, machete in hand chopping off chunks for a customer). In one lane several stalls selling brightly coloured powdered dies; fascinated Peter & I gazed as the lady showed us the results on small pieces of fluffy material. So often I have said how Dickensian it all is ... steps steep and worn, smells whose origin you don`t want to imagine, but people who smile and care. Actually, some of it, with those small Spanish balconies look Elizabethan; Shakespeare would be at home here.
A method of earning a few coins is for people dressed in local costume (the wide skirts and colourful hats I have mentioned before) is to pose for tourists´photos. A child will often carry a baby llama to enhance their chances and with pleading eyes offer to pose. There is also a plethora of beggars and it is, of course, impossible to give to all and difficult to be selective; what right do I have to chose and truly there are people with afflictions which make you wonder how they survive. It is hard enough for many able bodied people.
It is now 6.45 pm, dark outside and the chilly night is setting in. The weather here is typical of the sierra climate, hot sunny days followed by dark chilly nights, but the pleasure of being here and learning to understand another culture is imeasurable.
Stay safe wherever you are.
xx
Travellers: We are staying at the Mallqui hostel, Calle Nueva Alta 444. (email: mallqui_cusco@yahoo.com). It is $25 US per night so perhaps a little more than some but you get what you pay for and the rooms are lovely. The place is spotless and breakfast called ´full American´ includes fruit salad & eggs, together with the usual rolls, butter, jam etc). The only downside is the shower, which whilst providing hot water all day can be dangerous as the water temperature will suddenly change ... a shock if it goes cold, but scary if it suddently goes too hot.
Cusco taxis : We have been told to take registered taxis only and these are the ones with a yellow edged circle sticker on the front with `taxi`in bold black letters. Chances are most of the others are fine, but we are following the advice. They are cheap and plentiful.
The trains to Machu Picchu are usually full so you need to book several days in advance. We went to the station which was fine ... best go early in the morning there are long queues later.
Happy, safe travelling.
Where I stayed:
Mallqui Hostel (good rooms and excellent breakfast)
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