Mmmmmmm...Pizza!
Trip Start
Jan 26, 2008
1
20
36
Trip End
Feb 29, 2008
Rome,
Italy
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Below floor level at the Colosseum
. Impatience finally getting the better of us we, asked one of the counter staff if check-in for our flight was open and informed us that Check-in had opened promptly at 5:00am and there was no real need to advertise that fact on the screens - we should have known that, as check-in is scheduled to open 2 hours before the flight departs and as it was now less than 2 hours before the flight departs, check-in was open. We checked in, Belles bag came in a 19.7 kg, mine at 21.4 kg - got through with not even a raised eyebrow from the staff member, and then headed for the security check through to the departure gates. Highly eficient security once more and, after making it past thisimpediment, we went off in search of breakfast. We found a bakery cafe which was serving some fresh baked goods which we sampled. At the appropriate time we headed down to our departure gate and were ushered through into the Boarding Group A area. We stationed ourselves immediately adjacent to where we thought the door to the tarmac was, congratulating each other on being what we thought was first in line to get on the plane. When boarding opened it turned out the door to the tarmac was one we had not noticed and instead of being at the front of the queue we were now at the back of the queue. Once on the tarmac we noticed that very few people were boarding via the back door so we snuck up the back steps and managed to find ourselves seats and an unfilled overhead locker. We stationed ourselves in the aisle seat and the window seat hoping that no one would want to sit in the middle seat between
Fur Hat at the Colosseum
. The flight was about 90% full so our plan to get three seats to ourselves might have worked if we had taken the aisle and middle seats - surely no one would have wanted to clamber past the both of us for the window seat when there were other seats more readily accessible. We did, unfortunately, score our selves an armrest hog in between us. Both Belle and I spent the whole of the flight leaning away from each other as the man between us spread himself out, taking up the whole of both armrest, and promptly dropping into a very sound sleep. Fortunately the flight was only 110 minutes.We landed in Rome and disembarked out plane and entered the airport. We followed the signs to first baggage claim and then the exit and before we knew it we were outside having passed no customs check point. Apparently anyone can turn up to Rome. We got ourselves some bus and train tickets - bus to Ciampino regional railway station and then Regional Train to Termini Station - the main Rome railway station. We went out to the bus stop which was a sea of people trying to cram on to the bus that was about to depart. There are two ways of getting to Rome from the airport we were at - bus to regional train station then regional train to Termini (our option) or bus to Metro train station then Metro train to wherever you wanted. The bus was heading to the Metro station but going via the regional station
Arco di Costantino
. Although we joined the press to get on the bus the bus was already doing an pretty accurate impression of a can of sardines and so it left without us aboard. After about 10 minutes another bus arrived, this one just going to the Regional train station. This suited us perfectly, however, it did not suit many of the people in the crowd in front of us who wanted to get to the Metro station. instead of politely moving aside so we and other like minded travllers could board the bus, the people just stayed standing exactly where they were and showed absolutely no inclination to move even when you made hand gestures indicating you would like to get past. Instead, we had to weave past the many human obstacles before boarding the bus. After await of about 10 minutes the bus took off for the Train Station and we had our first introduction to traffic in Rome. Hair-raising might be a good way to describe it. I had had thoughts of hiring a scooter to get a round the city but after our 20 minute bus ride to the stations all thoughts of that notion were firmly put to one side. We got to the the somewhat run down train station and waited for about 15 minutes in the foyer while we waited for them to put up the information about which platform the train to Termini would be leaving from. About 8 minutes before the train was due the electronic display finally gave up the news that the train would be arriving at platform 1. We headed to the platform where I spotted a sign indicating there was a public toilet available.
Spanish Steps
I headed off to use these facilities and was glad my requirements did not involve the dropping of trousers. The doors did not close properly, there were no privacy locks on the doors and there were no toilet seats. There was probably no toilet paper either but I did not hang around long enough to investigate this.The train arrived and after a half an hour train ride we were in Rome. During the train ride we went past a Roman aqueduct so we really felt like we had arrived. At Termini the first necessity was Pizza! We got ourselves a slice each - Margarita, and it was excellent. Next we bought Metro train tickets and headed for Metro Line B which would take us to our Hostel. We got off the train at Basilica San Paolo and then, following the quite excellent directions provided by the hostel, quickly located our place of residence for the next few days. The only downside was the uphill walk all the way to the hostel. the hostel is essentially someone's apartment. They have three rooms which they use for Hostel guests - two doubles and one single. There is a shared bathroom for the guests and they have their own private bathroom. Francesco, a native of Rome and his wife, from Minnesota, are our hosts and have made us feel very welcome. The best part of the whole deal - free, unlimited WiFi!
After a quick freshen up we headed out to see the sites of Rome and were pleased to realise that it was only just on Midday
Trevi Fountain
. We headed back to the Metro and got off at Colosseo station. At the station we each bought a Roma Pass which gives you a 3 day unlimited public transport ticket and access to the first two museums you visit for no further charge. We used our first free entry to get in to the Colosseum. I must confess to being a bit underwhelmed by the Colosseum. I have always thought it would be absolutely amazing to go to the Colosseum. Now that I have been there I am glad I went but it did not quite live up to my expectations. It is very much a ruin and it also bears the many scars of the conversion into a tourist site. Added to that, there were huge numbers of tourists around, many of them speaking English with British or American accents. Outside on the Piazza was even worse. There were guys dressed up as Roman centurions - tacky, a food van where Belle got a bottle of water - very expensive, and numerous guys with a subcontinental background who were trying to flog all sorts of junk to the tourists - crass. These purveyors of fake Fendi, Gucci and Dolce & Gabana did provide some entertainment. They are obviously not supposed to be there and there is a police patrol through the piazza every five minutes or so. The sellers know this and keep an eye out for the patrolling van and simply grab up their wares and use the food van as a shield, circling behind it as the van goes past and within 30 seconds are back with their customers as if nothing had happened.
Trevi Fountain - detail
After the Colosseum we headed for the Spanish Steps via the Metro. As we headed out of the Spanga Metro station we spotted another Pizzeria and sampled the local delicacy once more - even better at this more traditional-looking pizzeria. We found the Spanish Steps which were covered in people and the now ubiquitous subcontinental entrepreneurs were also in evidence. We located a cafe and got some coffees and sat on the Spanish steps enjoying some fantastic Italian coffee. After a while I headed up to the top of the Spanish Steps. There are essentially three levels with a large landing area between the levels. The further up you go the less people there are and the nicer the atmosphere becomes. At the very top there was an open air art market where some very good oil paintings were available for only 50 Euro. I checked out the art for a while and then headed back down the stairs to find Belle. We headed off in the direction of the Trevi Fountain, browsing the many shops along the way. I was struck by the very stylish cashmre and woolen overcoats that were on sale, all for very reasonable prices compared to those I have seen back in Melbourne. Belle was once again struck by my unerring eye for the most expensive garment in the shop. We were looking at the coats in one particular store, there were several in the display and Belle asked me which one I liked the most, I immediately pointed out the one that had first struck my eye and she just shook her head
Pantheon
. Checking the prices I realised that I had picked the most expensive one by almost 300 Euro, needless to say, despite my liking of it, we left it behind in the store. We also came across what at home we would refer to as a Continental Deli. We bought some nice Italian cheeses - provolone and gorgonzola, and Belle got a small bottle of white truffle flavoured extra virgin olive oil. We arrived at the Trevi fountain, huge crowds of Tourist but his time fewer purveyors of the finest useless junk. Next it was on to the Pantheon. The Pantheon was a consecrated as a church at one point in its history and there are signs at the entrance and throughout asking that visitors respect the sanctity of the place and please keep silent and do not use flash photography. When we went inside the place was abuzz with chatter and there were flashes going of everywhere. From the Pantheon we made our way to Piazza Navona. Here the famous Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi was under restoration and all but invisible behind scaffolding and temporary fencing. There were two other fountains in the piazza to marvel at and there was another open-air art market. Here we bought 3 watercolour miniatures of night-time scenes of Rome from the artist. From Piazza Navona we tried to find Piazza Campidoglio which Michaelangelo designed. Although we were in the right general area, and did find some marble sculptures to photograph, we were never sure we did actually find Piazza Campidoglio
Pantheon Dome
. It turns out the building we had photographed and thought might be part of the Piazza but did not seem quite right was Il Vittoriano, a monument commemorating Italy's first king. The Piazza is just behind Il Vittoriano so hopefully we can find it tomorrow. By this time the light was fading so we completed what was essentially a circle and headed back to the Colosseum to catch a Metro train back to our hostel. The good thing about Rome is that although things may look far apart of the map, most of the places you want to visit are, in reality, very close together. Back at our hostel we were in need of some dinner so we headed across the road to the place recommended by our host for Pizza #3 - at least as good as Pizza #2, if not better! When I say Pizza I mean slice of pizza as opposed to an entire pizza pie. Pizza hear is sold by the gram and for the most part they are not circular as we expect at home but rectangular or rounded rectangles. After dinner we visited the supermarket to pick up some things for breakfast tomorrow and then it was back to the hostel to turn in after a very long day. 
