Day 91: George Town, Malaysia
Trip Start
Sep 21, 2006
1
86
228
Trip End
Jun 01, 2007
George Town,
Malaysia
Thursday, December 21, 2006
I'm spending a few days on the island of Penang, a former British colony, still charming for its flaking, crumbling, old town feel. It's dominated by Chinese traders, with many, much-visited Chinese temples - all ornamental porcelain dragons, burly warriors, charcoal and incense.
I'm based between Little India and Chinatown, both authentic and buzzing with local industry. Rows of shops spill out into the arcades, with parked motorbikes and samosa and noodle vendors. Despite it being a popular tourist centre, there is none of the calling and pestering of Thailand's traders. As such, it's a wonderful place to wander, to admire the peeling, cracking, pastel paints on second-floor shutters, the red lanterns, the fragrant smoke from the temples, the roadside cafés and the evening song of the muezzin, with the breeze from the sea making the humidity bearable.
A huge Chinese population begets a wealth of temples and clan houses in the town. This being a major port, the Hainan temple is suitably dedicated to Mar Chor, the patron saint of seafarers. There are no images of ships but of legendary battles of warriors turned saints in the cement carving and reliefs by the doorway. The interior bears black-and-white photos of deceased family members. An urn is full to brimming with ash from years of burning incense sticks.
I return to my cell. It's odd, yet calming to hear through the window of my room English church bells from St George's along the road; The church was built in 1818 using convict labour.
It proves another disappointing night for a vegetarian non-beer drinker - I want to try Malaysian cuisine but it's mostly chicken, seafood or tainted with either. Even a Malay restaurant with veggie options proves frustrating as I have no idea what's what on the menu. Even a translation in my guide fails to match the names. I get a pizza. (It was a very good one, though. I recommend Ecco, on Lebut Chula. Would have been even better with a glass of wine...)
There is a seemingly easy balance of cultures within Penang. Opposite the mosque is an off-licence and several lingering prostitutes. Down the street from a rather modern mosque, with green-tinted windows is an Italian-styled pub, playing a naff Xmas medley, across the road, is the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, a fabulous 1880s merchant home now restored as an exclusive hotel; It turns out the bar is in the former servants' quarters belonging to the mansion.
Lebut Chula is busy until late with the mobile food stalls serving soups and satay to snackers.
