Day 74: Bangkok

Trip Start Sep 21, 2006
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75
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Trip End Jun 01, 2007


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Tuesday, December 5, 2006

It's the eve of the king's 79th birthday and Bangkok's streets are filled with people dressed in celebratory yellow. King (big intake of breath) Phrabat Samdej Phra Chaoyuhua Bhumibol Adulyadej Maharaj, or Rama IX for short has been ruling Thailand for 60 years. It's an auspicious eve and on the royal grounds, Sanam Luang, there are preparations for a big event, free food and haircuts for the poor, and anyone who queues and looks needy. Barbers wear masks and antiseptic gloves. Stages are readied for song, dance, transvestite shows and boxing.
I visit Wat Pho, home to Thailand's largest Buddha, a mammoth (15 x46m) reclining figure finished in gold. The hall that contains it was built afterwards and pillars make it impossible to take in the whole except from head or nacre-inlaid toes. Incredible murals covers the walls to the ceiling. Sadly these too are impossible to inspect along the upper reaches.
There is a constant chinking sound which I take to be bats in the roof but it's the smallest change being dropped into metal pots along the rear of the great hall. A stall offers roof tiles to sponsor for the renovation.
Around the Buddha hall are many garishly decorated royal stupas and collections of Buddhas in various historical and regional styles, from ascetic to regal. A lesson by a renowed monk is underway in another hall. The room is filled with nuns (dressed in white) while monks are lingering around the buffet.
This is still an important school for medicine and massage and one room is decorated with antique maps of the human body's pressure points and muscles.
Back in Backpackerland, a rumour spreads that Thailand's bars are going dry for the royal birthday and people stock up on bottles of cheap whisky. (The rumour turns out not to be the case in Banglamphu).
I do my bit for the bars that may be out of pocket tomorrow by meeting pal, Tom, and his wife, passing through on their honeymoon. I introduce them to the joys of the shared Samsung bucket and, between bars, we wander the streets towards the Royal Palace. The trees are dressed with cascading white lights for the celebrations. It's magical.
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