Day 67: Luang Prabang
Trip Start
Sep 21, 2006
1
68
228
Trip End
Jun 01, 2007
Loading Map
Luang Prabang,
Lao Peoples Dem Rep
Monday, November 27, 2006
On the north-eastern tip of Luang Prabang where the two rivers converge is the city's most impressive Wat Xieng Thong. Steps lead up from the river for pilgrims arriving by boat. Building began here in 1560. It is one of the few temple complexes to survive the sacking of the city by Thai/Vietnamese invaders in 1887.
The walls, pillars and underside of the roof of the sîm, or ordination hall, are decorated in the, by now familiar, stencil work of gold onto red or black. The rear wall bears a mosaic illustration of the Buddhist tree of life. The same technique with coloured glass used in the Royal Palace Museum's throne room is utilised here, depicting folk tales on a small library beside the sîm and within a large hall by the east entrance. A great royal funerary carriage is housed here with a collection of timber Buddhas.
It's 11am when I arrive at the wat as a kalang (metal gong) is hit to signal lunch for the monks. This is their last meal of the day.
By the south-west exit, women are sun-drying cassava papads on bamboo screens.
Up the road, opposite Wat Nong Sikhounmuang, at The Tamarind (which I really recommend for a western taste of Laos cuisine and information), I dip balls of sticky rice into a spicy selection of salsas, with river vegetable crisps (Khai Pene). You can dine here while listening to the monks chanting at 5pm.
I drop in on Big Brother Mouse books, a voluntary organisation gradually providing a library of titles for young and old. So few books are published in Laos, and very few people get to read them, especially fiction. I regret not finding this place sooner, at least before I booked my ticket out, but make a note of details to keep in touch and, I hope, to offer some help. Check out www.bigbrothermouse.com
