Day 63: Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong

Trip Start Sep 21, 2006
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64
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Trip End Jun 01, 2007


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Thursday, November 23, 2006

For my last morning in Chiang Mai I visit Wat Phra Singh (1345-), home of a Phra Buddha figure almost as revered as Bangkok's emerald Buddha. Every Thai New Year (April), the Phra Buddha is carried through the streets of Chiang Mai for the public to sprinkle it with water. Monks are arranging flowers on th e pillars in preparation for the king's 60th year rule celebrations. (How contrasting to leave Nepal, where people suspect the king of arranging the murder of his family and are preparing to vote on his removal, to arrive in Thailand where the king's image is everywhere and he is genuinely loved.)
Of more interest to me are the stunning frescos within Vikara Lai Kham that tell the story of Suwannahong and Sangthong. The murals are worn away in part, but delicately illustrated.
At midday I'm in a packed '1st class, air-con' (yeah, right) minibus headed to Chiang Khong, Thailand's northern border with Laos. North of Chiang Rai, the air is cooler and earthier. A few karst hills rise from the padi fields. This area is sold to tourists as part of a 'Golden Triangle' incorporating Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. I only intend to cross into Laos.
Dinner tonight is on the veranda of the excellent and chilled Bamboo Guest House. Here, overlooking the Mekong river, I get my first sight of Laos, under the new moon, the silhouettes of hills and a few window lights.
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