Day 51: Swayambhunath

Trip Start Sep 21, 2006
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52
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Trip End Jun 01, 2007


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Saturday, November 11, 2006

This morning I return to Swayambhunath, also known as the 'Monkey Temple' for it preponderance of 'holy', thieving monkeys. It's a short walk west, over the cess of Kathmandu's Vishnumati river and up a long series of steps to the crown of Swayambhu hill. There are countless small stupas dotted around and leading up the stairways, plus, not unexpectedly, plenty of beggars and Buddhist memorabilia stalls. At the top, these crowd the temples and stupas so it's hard to tell what's for sale and what's not. The sadhus (holy men) are - for Rs.50 a photo.
Swayambhunath has been a place of pilgrimage for over 1,500 years. Both Buddhist and Hindu gods mix. Both religions are accommodated here and often merged. Monkeys aren't the only inhabitants. The mangiest dogs in Nepal fester here. A clutch of puppies nestle in a heap of downed prayer flags. Pigeons roost on the whitewashed dome of the main stupa and within the two shirharas (Indian-style towers) either side of the steps.
It's a public holiday, and, beneath the strings of matted prayer flags, groups of men are gambling. Families are sharing feasts of chickpea curries near the monastery.
The view over Kathmandu is clearer than four years ago, perhaps due to the banning of polluting tuk-tuks.
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