Day 29: Chame to Pisang

Trip Start Sep 21, 2006

228

Trip End Jun 01, 2007

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Flag of Nepal Chame, Nepal
Friday, October 20, 2006

It snowed overnight and some remains in sheltered spots along the damp trail. We head into forest. The leaves are autumnal auburn and gold. Pika (mountain mice) skip over boulders. To our left is the frosted face of Annapurna II, to the right, the glacial face of Paungda Danda. It's Tibetan territory and we come across remote stalls selling prayer wheels, jewellery and woolens. Not that I'd want to carry extra weight up to 5000m... After Bhratang the valley widens. Juniper and berberis thrive beside the path. Between forested peaks, Annapurna IV rises.
We're in Lower Pisang (3240m) for the night. 100m higher by the gompa (monastery) yellow-billed choughs glide and a magnificent view of Annapurna II to the west and Annapurna IV to the south is offered.
The second half of the day again is spent shivering as the sun dips behind the mountains. Books are red and cups of black tea are ordered, mainly to wrap one's hands around.
Today's guesthouse is half-built. Cement drops onto my mattress when guests stomp on the floor above. I step out of the shower into sawdust and grit, and a chill wind blows through the gaps between the wall planks.