Day 7: Thar Desert Camel Safari

Trip Start Sep 21, 2006
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Trip End Jun 01, 2007


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Thursday, September 28, 2006

The Maharaja's palace beckons me. The audio tour opens up the history of Jaisalmer (Jaisal desert) from its legendary setting prophesized by Krishna, through its inception in 1156 by the first maharaja, Jaisal, through his lineage to today's ruling family who provide commentary on the recording.
The hour-long guide takes in the weaponry used to defend the fort (the residents always chose battle or immolation over capture), portraits of all the kings, a panoramic view of the city from the roof, beside the chattris-bearing saffron-and-red flag, to regal furnishings and delicate tile and stone art. In many alcoves, bats cling and chatter. The aroma of bat guava breezes about the palace.
I shop for further Indian history books in a shop owned by Rao, who is fasting and not shaving for the nine-day Navratha. I fear today's samosa may tempt him and flee to share my spoils in shade with some squirrels 01 Palace window
01 Palace window
 .
This afternoon, the party is squeezed aboard jeeps to race to a strech of scrub in the Thar Desert, about 20km west. A train of camels awaits. I lean back for the mount, thighs stretched apart and we're off for 90 minutes, trudging across the rock and sand. We're never far from the road or pylons. An antelope is spotted leaping across our path.
We camp on a strip of dunes before sunset. I slip away from the constant nattering to watch the sun dip, the sky shift to gold and turquoise then the stars appear with the Milky Way splitting the hemisphere. Scarab beetles zero in on my toes, sensing the vibrations.
Post desrt dhal bhat, a Rajasthan folk-music quartet show up to entertain us, dimly lit by the wood fire. A pocket-sized, bejewelled girl leads me on to the sand to shuffle along to her dancing. The group plays the same four songs three times but they're hypnotic, rhythm, snake-charming pipes and an octave-quiverring vocal. The songs sound ancient but are apparently only 25 years old.
As the moon sinks, we lie back on our metal bedframes and stare into the heart of the galaxy and spy shooting stars.
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Comments

johnbownas
johnbownas on Oct 3, 2006 at 03:17PM

Contextual
Taken out of context one might think you were on a totally different sort of tourist trail when reading lines such as, 'I lean back for the mount, thighs stretched apart...'

Glad to have found this blog though...I'll follow your exploits with interest!!

John

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