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The heart of Southern Spain
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I had a number of options for my final two days in Spain, but due to a severe lack of funds I opted to head straight for the heart of Andalucia, Seville. A cliche of flamenco, tapas bars, strolling guitarists and bullfights, the city was sure to keep me occupied. The only problem would be the stifling heat, which would more than likely ensure I would be partaking in another Spanish tradition during my stay, that of the siesta.
My initial plan was to make my way to Seville via Cordoba, but given I missed the bus I decided to take the direct route. It wasn't a bad a idea, with some beautiful scenery ranging from semi-desert to mountainous with numerous olive groves along the way. It really was how I pictured the south of Spain.
I arrived around 2pm, and it was sweltering. Not wanting to make my way on foot to the hostel, I instead opted for a very short tram ride to Plaza Nueva, in the centre of the city. From here it wasn't far to the hostel, although in the short time it took me to arrive I did notice something very different from Granada, and that was the style. Seville seemed to be a lot more fashion conscious.
I didn't do much that first afternoon, given it was so hot. After a bit of a sleep and swim in the rooftop pool, I joined a big group on another tapas tour. Whilst the hostels I stayed in weren't ideal, both being very noisy, the free tapas tours were certainly a bonus. The one here was even better than in Granada, with a few hours spent at one tapas bar followed by a free flamenco show. I figured it probably wasn't up to the same standard of those charging 12euro, but given free was about all I could afford I couldn't complain. It was a pretty good show too, with the singer and dancer complementing each other really well. I kind of felt the dance moves were an extension of the pain and emotion expressed in the lyrics. It was fantastic.
I rose early the following morning to get out and see a little of the city before it got too hot. Heading down Avenida de la Constitucion, it was impossible not to admire what was one of the largest cathedrals in the world. Not the classic gothic style, but more spread out, it was so big I couldn't get the entire thing in one photo. Despite supposedly housing the tomb of Christopher Columbus, I couldn't justify spending 7euro to go into another church though, so once I'd taken enough photos I continued onto the Rio Guadalquivir.
Not far from the cathedral and by the river was Seville's famous bullring, Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza. It was one of the oldest in the country, begun in 1758, and although I didn't agree with the cruelty inflicted upon the bulls, I was keen to do a short tour to learn a little more about the sport. Whilst being relatively short, it was a good opportunity to look inside the ring and learn about some of the famous bullfighters who'd met their match within it.
With the barometer not yet topping 30 degrees, I continued on my self guided tour. Heading across the bridge, I saw some pretty interesting apartments with a distinctly Andalucian feel to them before continuing south to the magnificent Plaza de Espana. This was probably the highlight of my short tour, with its fountains, canal (albeit dry), and dazzling semi-circle of buildings clad in ceramic tiles. I spent a bit of time here taking some photos before the heat began to pick up, at which time I decided lunch and a siesta were on the cards.
Later that afternoon once the worst of the heat had passed I decided to check out another part of the city. The old Jewish quarter, Barrio de Santa Cruz, was immediately east of the cathedral and its tangle of narrow streets and plazas was a great place to get lost in.
I took it easy that evening, and went for a short stroll near the hostel the following morning before heading out to the airport for my flight to London. Seville seemed to be a really great place, and with Ania by my side and a little more company I'm sure I would have enjoyed it more. Nevertheless, four days in Andalucia was a great way to spend some time before catching up with friends in London. There was plenty to keep me occupied on my own, and I certainly didn't regret spending the money to get there. I only hoped I would get an opportunity to go back and explore the region a little more deeply.
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