A change of scene

Trip Start Sep 12, 2006
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Trip End Sep 08, 2008


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Thursday, September 14, 2006

I arrived at Warsaw's Okecie airport, some 58 hours and 30 minutes after leaving from Hobart. The final short leg from Frankfurt went smoothly, and once I breezed through customs (for the first time as an EU citizen) I collected my luggage and look for my hosts, Kornelia and her husband Kuba.

For the first time in my travels, I thought it would be good to stay with some locals instead on in a dingy hostel. An organisation called hospitality club allows people to register and offer to host fellow members at there home for one or a few days. I didn't know anyone who had done this before, but the opportunity to be shown around by a local, not to mention free accommodation seemed just too good to pass up.

I easily recognised Kornelia and Kuba from the pictures they sent me, and once we left the airport we went back to their flat just outside the centre of the city. It was a good opportunity for me to unwind after the long journey, enjoy a coffee polish style (kawa parzona) and get to know my hosts. Soon afterwards we ventured down to Warsaw's rebuilt old town. It was a place totally unlike any I'd seen, with the main square being postcard perfect with the old townhouses and outdoor cafes.

The next day was the first of two days of extensive site seeing Kornelia had planned for me. We began by walking to the palace of culture and science, an ugly gift from the Soviet Union in 1950's, and Warsaw's tallest building. For a small fee we had an ear popping elevator ride to the top, where we were rewarded with a fantastic 360 degree view of Warsaw. The sun was shining, and it was about 25 degrees, so I managed to squeeze in a bit of Australian sun to bring with me.

We spent the next few hours wandering around Prozna which was part of the Jewish ghetto of the Second World War, and also home to some of the few pre-world war II buildings left standing in the capital after the Nazis demolition of the city in 1944. Nowy Swiat was our next stop, a beautiful street lined with cafes and shops, and what I imagine is part of the cities heart.

From here we went back to the old town, where I took plenty of photos of the old buildings, royal castle and the square. It was kind of hard to believe that this huge area was just a pile of rubble at the end of the Second World War, and that it had been entirely rebuilt from photographs and original plans. After meeting Kuba for dinner, we went for a walk in the stunning Lazienki Park, followed by a look at an old cemetery. When Kornelia told me she wanted to show me a cemetery I thought it sounded quite strange, however it was quite interesting, with the headstones of famous Poles shaded by the tall trees.

The following day we drove out of the city to a place about 30km outside Warsaw where Kornelia showed me a Sowanka. This was quite a strange site, with salt water spray being absorbed by the locals standing around a wooden fence. Apparently it is quite good for health, in particular the kidneys and Kornelia found it quite amusing to see me lapping it up just like one of the locals! We wandered round the nearby stalls for a few minutes, where I tasted some polish cheese and sweets.

Later on we went up to Wilanow Park, smaller than Lazienki, but possibly more interesting with a huge palace, beautiful gardens, a large lake and more than ten newlyweds posing for photos.

The next stop on what I now realise really was a jam packed two days was the Warsaw uprising museum, testament to the two month battle that took place in 1944, when the Polish people resisted the Nazis for two months. It was interesting to see the photos and read the stories about the hardships the people faced during those terrible times.

The following morning Kornelia and I cycled to some woods outside of the city to pick some mushrooms we were to cook for lunch. It was another beautiful day, and nice to get out of the city for a few hours. We cooked the mushrooms with some eggs, and had another chat before I made for Warsaw Centralna for my 4pm train to Krakow.

It really was a fantastic three days for me in Warsaw. On my own, I probably would have marvelled no less at the rebuilt old town, or been any less moved by the Warsaw uprising museum, but I certainly wouldn't have had to the opportunity to visit a number of other sites not in my guidebook, nor would I have had the wonderful chance to become good friends with some people living in city. I won't remember Warsaw for the buildings, but for the non stop laughs I had with Kornelia and Kuba over my three days. I look forward to visiting them again.
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