Discovering Borneo Brunei part 2
Trip Start
Nov 01, 2005
1
17
41
Trip End
Jul 28, 2006
BSB, Brunei
Thursday, April 13, 2006
He we are again, and well, did we go back to Apek Utama? The answer is no, we ended up in the Brunei Hotel, which ironically is the hotel our original taxi driver was trying to relocate us to on our first stay. We managed to get a good deal from the airport accommodation desk, less than half the book price.
Anyway here we are back in BSB and staying at a reputable hotel. Our first night (Friday) we decided to eat in and were joined by a group of young people, all wearing the same T-shirts and trackies, obviously a team of some sort. Three slightly older looking guys sat at a table next to us and we got chatting to them. One was Portuguese, one was Brazilian and the third was of Argentinean descent but now lived in Oz and they were all professional footballers
01 Kedah v Brunei
. After some discussion, being translated variously into Latin American/Spanish/Portuguese, we established that they were from Peninsular Malaysia and were in BSB to play a local team. We had been chatting away for quite a while about all sorts of things when the Brazilian guy shouted over the dinning room "hey coach can we get a ticket for these guys for tomorrows game?" "sure no problem, I'll leave them at reception tomorrow" came the reply. OK, we thought, that's tomorrow nights entertainment sorted out down at the local park? Saturday ended up split into three very different parts. The first was spent walking to a local park and climbing, very energetically in the heat and humidity (sweaty Betty) to the top of an adjacent hill for a good view point. The second was spent largely doing nothing other than drinking coffee and orange juice and surfing the net and the third bit was at the match. Much to our surprise our afternoon surfing had discovered that the footballers were Kedah FC, who were currently in first place in the Malaysian Premier League and were to play Brunei's only Premier league side at the country's national stadium that night! The final arrangement for us to get tickets was to meet the trainer outside the stadium before the match. It never occurred to us how absurd an arrangement it was until the enormous stadium, with lots of entrances and levels came into sight. Back home in the UK if some one said "I'll give you your tickets outside Wembley Stadium" you'd expect a bit more detail but it didn't cross our minds
02 Chris and Paul
. Anyway eventually, just in time we recognised the trainer, who had been waiting at a completely different gate for 15mins, and we were able to enter the stadium. That is when your next decision has to be made - where do you sit? As Kedah were from such a distance away there weren't many of their supporters there. We aren't sure if there was anyone other than us. Now Paul's only football stadium experience is in the UK, where if you happen to find yourself in the opposition fans part of the ground you don't make too much of a fuss about it and keep quiet. Chris' only previous football match was a Walsall game when our youngest son, Matthew, was matchboy, many years ago. We sat quite quietly in the midst of the Brunei supporters. As it turned out Kedah didn't score and lost by one goal so it was never obvious exactly where our allegiances lay. Kedah were the more skilful side but the atrocious pitch conditions, almost ankle deep water in parts due to a huge downpour just before kickoff, favoured the more aggressive style of Brunei. We had to chuckle to ourselves at one point when one of the crowd took his socks off, put them on his hands and waved them at some of the players. It must, we think, be some kind of local insult. Of course all the proceedings were spoken in Malaysian, however we did manage to understand one or two other words being shouted at least one of which we believe came to the UK with the Vikings/Angles/Saxons if you follow our drift! Back at the hotel the team weren't too dispirited
03 Suspended walkway
. They were professionals and were focusing on their next game after a day or two R'n'R in Brunei. Following on from the excitement of the match and having become quite blasé about travelling in Borneo we thought we'd catch a bus to the museum of Brunei, which was a little way out of town, what could possibly go wrong with that? The answer was that the bus could break down, just outside the city. Hardly any English was spoken by driver or passengers but they sat still and remained on the bus so we did too. The driver made and received a couple of mobile phone calls but everyone still sat tight. After a few more minutes one guy got off and lit a cigarette. Another then joined him. Then a guy went for a pee in the cemetery, charming! Another man got on his mobile and in a couple of minutes a car arrived; he got in and sped off. One of the smokers then hailed a passing car, which presumably was driven by a friend, and he disappeared. Then a woman hailed a water taxi. Entertainment for a while was provided by one of the male passengers who was obviously running-in a pair of dentures for a horse and had problems keeping them in their proper place for more than a few seconds at a time. We began to wonder if we would be the only ones left with the driver, however that wasn't to be as the cavalry arrived. The cavalry took the form of the next bus, whereon all the remaining passengers from our bus got off and crammed into this next bus. Crammed it was with far more passengers than seats. Most of our fellow passengers squeezed themselves onto seats that already seemed to have the proper number of occupants. We and a couple more decided that we could stand, holding onto the ceiling support straps/rails. Apparently in Brunei, even if the bus has such straps/rails passengers are not allowed to travel standing and we must sit down (or at least look to any passing patrol car that everyone is sitting)
04 river front
. One young man gallantly offered Chris his lap to sit on, he wasn't a large lad and Chris decided that it might be better if she could share a bit of his seat instead. He looked a bit relieved. Paul and another couple crouched down in the aisle, pretending to sit, which satisfied the driver and we were able to complete the rest of our journey. Another very grand museum, showing more evidence of the wealth and importance of both Brunei and the Sultan.We couldn't resist another trip to our favourite Indian Restaurant. The food was once again delicious. This visit Paul noticed that there was a table of three men who were not eating and had some impressive cameras on show. In an area next to our table was a more private area for larger parties or groups and although private Chris had still managed to over hear references to "our People" and similar phrases. Of course we had to ask the waiter who was dining and apparently it was the Brunei Foreign Minister and his counterpart from Afghanistan, with their aides, out to dinner. How brill is that? (We couldn't hear much.....just in case anyone thinks we know state secretes!!) Anyway when our meal was finished we gave our compliments once more via the waiter to the cooking staff. As previously, the visitors' book was brought for us to add a comment but this time there was an added piece of info. We were told that the manager reads the comments and then uses suitable ones for their adverts. We couldn't resist having a look back at other comments and were quite chuffed to find that the previous glowing comment Chris had entered had been marked with a very large asterix, we guess for use elsewhere.
When we arrived at our original hotel, was it only 3 weeks previously? one of the things the owner said we should do was to climb the hill in the forestry Dept land between the hotel and the city because the views, particularly at sunset were great. Well we'd got to our last day and hadn't yet managed to do so decided it was now or never. It definitely wasn't going to be a sunset climb for logistical reasons so a few mad dogs and we English folks were out just before the hottest part of the day. Paul was so glad it had been Chris' suggestion that they should make the climb as they got to the ridge and the first viewing platform, there had been 550 steps!! The views were good from each of the vantage points although most could have done with a bit of thinning out to make the best of their positions. We decided that the alternative route down, although significantly longer in distance would hopefully have more gently ramped slopes rather than steps, and would be less painful for knees and leg muscles generally. Wouldn't you know it we went down steps then up, then down, then up, etc, etc., across suspended bridge/walkways, along paths, down ramps, up ramps, etc, etc. Chris was very pleased when that 'little' walk was over and we were able to hail a water taxi to another favourite eatery for a late lunch and a good deal of rehydration!
Oh, before we go we mustn't forget to tell you about afternoon tea at the Empire, Brunei's finest and best hotel. The hotel was originally started by Prince Jefri, the Sultans brother and at that time the Finance Minister. Well without going into too much detail (it was probably all over the British tabloids) there was a bit of financial jiggery pokery and the Sultan had to ask his brother to leave his position and the hotel was left unfinished. Some years later the government, along with a private backer finished the job off and wow what a place it is. Well we just had to go and have a look but what do you wear for afternoon tea at a 7 star hotel??? Well frankly we had nothing remotely suitable so we smoothed out our cleanest trousers and shirt and hoped we looked like we'd just got back from a safari. Entering the building at ground level, the doors were opened by not one but two "boys" in uniform. The lobby was huge, with open plan reception area and people around to "help". The Atrium Lounge was the place to head for we were told. Cor, and what a place, a balcony with magnificent gold columns rising several storeys high to a painted ceiling. The balcony its self, looking down 2 floors over the ballroom and piano lounge. Sweeping stair cases and glittering glass and brass escalators, to the lower floors, which were at beach level. Huge glass windows looking out over the South China Sea and the man made harbour, the hotel boat bobbing about. Great comfy armchairs, pristine white linen table clothes and napkins placed expertly by the waiter onto your lap. Then along came the 3 tier cake stand, delicate little triangle sandwiches with the crusts cut off, 4 freshly baked scones with jam and clotted cream, 4 slices of fruit cake, 6 little fancy cakes and earl grey tea. Should we eat the lot we thought? Or would that just be too rude?? Well actually there was far too much to eat and so we sat trying to look nonchalant sipping our tea when actually we really wanted to ogle at the splendour and check out the loo's.......no squats here! The waiting staff hung around discretely whilst still managing to be attentive. We discovered we were quite well dressed and having been brought up so beautifully by our parents (thanks guys) we were able to drink our tea with our little finger cocked out better than everyone else. Actually the hotel was full of tourists taking a cheap break, well apart from one or two well heeled gentlemen with nice cufflinks.....this for Chris's single girlfriends! Cheap by UK standards anyway, the cost of the accommodation was really very reasonable, only that of a good three star in the UK. So if you fancy a break with a difference try out the beautiful Empire, with it's pools, onsite cinema, bowling alley, golf course, numerous restaurants, inside and out and afternoon tea at £5 each, an absolute bargain.
..................and so to Perth, Western Australia, time to meet the cousins.
