Bangkok, Italy
Trip Start
Aug 21, 2007
1
2
27
Trip End
Dec 20, 2007
Bangkok,
Thailand
Friday, August 31, 2007
It's been 9 days since we landed and we owe an update by now. We've been keeping pretty busy, so our apologies and here we go:
People warned us that Bangkok is a hellhole. Homocidal traffic, smog to make you cringe, masses of people and heckling parasitic quick buck chasers. We choose to soften that impression.
It's really not that bad and also what you make it. I had the advantage of a local guide (Regine). she'd been here 2003 before we met and had pretty much scoped out the place so that classic tourist traps could be circumnavigated.
Yes, it's polluted. But the traffic is no worse than in Roma or Napoli (hence the title) and we're sure there are worse places in the world traffic-wise. And there are by no means too many people. Unless you choose to only stay around the infamous Kao San backpacker road made famous by "the Beach". That's not Bangkok. That's where you get the heckling. And even hecklers are easily shut up by a simple "no". Other classic tourist destinations are definitely worse. Reputedly including the south Thailand island resorts. And I've been to Tunesian beaches you could not lie on because some shady figure will arive every 5 minutes to really push their camel or pots and suchlike. So we actually enjoyed Bangkok.
Very recommended is a 2-hour Thai massage on your arrival for less than $10.
flight to Bangkok
And there is a very helpful official tourist information down by the river under a bridge just south of the backpacker district. They inform but don't sell. They can give you train timetables, point you to wherever you want to go, etc. For independent travellers we strongly recommend this as a first stop over the official tourist info, the TAT. Although government run, the TAT's sole reason for existence is pushing the Thai tourist trade. I.e. selling. Tuctucs get commission/free fuel to take you to the TAT so they'll do it for very little money (20 Baht). The TAT staff will be keen to set up your entire Thailand trip for you on day one, send you flying all over the place. For good value, mind you, and a lot of travellers we met were very happy with the tours that had been set up for them. But we're trying to travel on a low budget and as independent as we can. So after Regine's previous experience there we decided it was not for us.
The Thai's are aware of the importance of a healthy tourist trade so there is a specific english and various other languages speaking tourist police in every major town. They regulate tourist enterprises and should be the first port of call for any emergency/complaint/theft, etc on toll free 1155. That's good to know. Theft is not much of a threat if common sense travel precautions are kept in mind and prized possessions not too carelessly flaunted, etc. Bangkok is a safe place to walk the streets in the evening even in decidedly untouristed parts of town as long as you stick to populated roads.
street scene
Talking about phone numbers, a useful prefix to all inland calls Thailand-wide is 1234, then the number including area code. That way you save big Bahts when you want to, e.g. book your guest houses ahead.
Our favorite means of travel in Bangkok was on foot and by Ferry on the Chao Praya River. this is lovel by day and night. Temples floating by and glimpses of simple Thai dwellings on the river front. Talking about the river, I certainly associated vibrant floating markets with Bangkok. But that is a bygone age. There are multiple roofed markets around every corner in town. There is only one utterly tourist-trappy small floating market a few miles outside Bangkok. I can't imagine this to be any more vibrant than those small markets the Thais use for their shopping. We also took the public buses which cost next to nothing and are certainly an experience. A must do is taking a tuc tuc at least once. These three-whelled motor scooter taxis are everywhere, a great adrenaline ride weaving in and out of traffic and an excellent opportunity to practice those haggling skills slumbering in you. You need to settle the price before you head out. You haggle on most things in thailand. Excluding food...
...which is as yummy as it's made up to be. We've avoided any flashy restaurants and prefer to eat at market stalls or in people's front yards. The thais tend to shop frewsh in the markets every night and then cook at home fot their families. Usually the ladies do the cooking. If Thais are single they eat out at the market stalls where you can usaually get a freshly cooked main meal for 20-25 Baht ( about 60 US cents). Bottled water and beer with it is recommended.
Our usual day starts with a soup as Regine says to open up your pores in the morning so you can sweat easier throughout the day. I'm still not fully convinced. Fact is I sweat a lot afterwards. But then you do in these climes. It doesn't help that we do like a (very big) bit of chili in our food. We then have e.g. some pineapple. For lunch we usually just munch on the abundant local fruits which are phantastic and largely undiscribable in taste. Then dinner as above on the market.
So much for our gGeneral tourist tips. So what did we enjoy seeing in Bangkok? I'll save that for the next entry.
