Our 'few days' in Gilgit
Trip Start
Aug 10, 2008
1
43
59
Trip End
Ongoing
Gilgit,
Pakistan
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
At one point we had to stop and wait for other vehicles to make a convoy to pass through some sensitive areas. We also had several chai stops and at one, S and I jumped out, leaving the others sleeping. As we ordered Chai we were alarmed to see the bus drive off but others assured us it would be back - they had to fix the tyre. We were stuck at the outdoor chai shop for about an hour in the cold without our bags or jackets - stomping around to keep warm and wondering what was going on! It eventually returned but further along the road we were stopped by a landslide that had happened moments before. Everything was at a standstill and everyone was mucking in to clear the rocks with just the light from the buses headlamps. I watched but soon had to become first-aider for S who managed to gash a huge cut in his hand as he clashed rocks with another guy! The rest of the journey was not so dramatic but it was amazing to watch as the sun rose and the stunning landscape was revealed. We stopped briefly at some hot springs emerging from the rock by the roadside - we just had enough time to splash our faces with the hot water before we continued towards the mountains.
Oh wow, this place is beautiful. We arrived on the 22nd January and the bus stopped on the edge of what seemed at first to be just a small settlement. We were told it would take us to Gilgit but infact it was just the Gilgit area, not Gilgit town so we had to take a taxi - one of the little decorated Suzukis - to our guesthouse. There was more here, with shops, houses and business but still not enough for a single traffic sign and all with the backdrop of the mountains. We had a warm welcome at the guesthouse and were glad of a nice cup of chai after the long journey.
We all fell in love with this place. Ok now, we weren't so thrilled with the temperature - you could see your breath in the rooms, we were in thermals and we relied heavily on the little gas heater we'd bought for the trip - but it was worth it. It was nice to experience a smaller town, wake up to mountain views, and the people were so lovely - so friendly, warm and hospitable, and intrigued to meet foreigners.
The boys at the hostel were lovely and with only one other person staying there because it was off season, it felt like we had the place to ourselves. During our stay we were treated to dinner several times and in return we sometimes shared our dinner and cakes with the boys too.
We planned to stay just 3 days here but even on the first day we knew we'd stay longer. I don't think any of us imagined we'd end up staying a whole month though!
On our first day we went with one of the guys from the hostel to see the Kargah Buddha - a rock carving on the side of a mountain, and also saw some of the nearby areas including a fishery with lots of trout. The area was beautiful - very natural with waterfalls and rivers, and dry stone walls making the villages blend in with the landscape.
Later we went to the nearby suspension bridge and met two local guys K and M when they stopped us to talk and say hello. K was studying and worked in a small business in Gilgit and M was in the army, stationed in the mountains. We heard about his brave stories of his surviving an avalanche and rescuing others - he'd even been nominated for a medal. They asked if they could join us while we explored Gilgit and we were more than happy to have their company. Later we found out that the reason they approached us was because M wanted to improve his English and K advised him that he should speak to foreigners to learn. They were friendly, honest and fun to be around so we were pleased to help.
The next day we met them and together we went for a hike/climb in the mountains around K's village, Jutial. They had checked a couple of times to make sure we really wanted to climb but we were all up for a challenge = a good job really when we saw the steep starting point!. It was really tricky at times but I was fortunate enough to have M's hand for most of the way helping me up the steeper and more dangerous areas - they were impressed that us girls managed so well because they say it's a tricky climb for even the local guys! We went up to a Buddhist stupa and we showed them the customs we had learnt in Mongolia to walk around 3 times in a clockwise directions while throwing stones onto it. We had some great viewpoints up there and stopped at various points to grab a sip of water, and to build a small fire. Up there we also met a young shepherd. He looked after sheep and spent all day up there in the cold. At his tender age of around 10, he'd never had a chance to go to school because this was his family duty. His face was so old and sad for his years.
As the afternoon drew on, we continued around the mountain and descended next to a small hut. It was occupied by 3 construction workers building a stone building next door, they had a small stove and asked us in for a cup of chai - just what we needed (This tea is like medicine - we've all become addicted to it!). From here we walked through the village where we finally saw some women (!) and admired the simple yet beautiful homes, dry stone walls and beautiful metal gates in many designs and colours. We finished at K's house where we sat in beautiful handmade metal chairs in the garden and enjoyed more tea and biscuits before they accompanied us back to the guesthouse. We were all ready for our hot showers and slept well that night!
We got on great with K & M and continued to spend time with them over the next days. They took us to a fantastic suspension bridge with the road running through the mountain - the bridge and tunnel were only wide enough for one vehicle so there was a signalman stationed on each side. We went for walks around the villages and along the river, and drank lots of Chai. Again we found it difficult because as the eldest of the two, and our 'hosts' M always paid - no matter how hard we tried! In return we asked the boys if we could make them dinner. They agreed and said we could go to M's brother's place in a village called Dainyor.
We had a walk around first and at one point we were accompanied by a policeman who checked K & M's ID's to make sure they were reliable and taking care of us! We brought some ingredients from the market stalls and proceed to M's brother's house. I guess we didn't know of think about the fact that we wouldn't be in the house (not allowed because of the women in there) but we had an amazing picnic on the riverbank outside! K and M brought carpet to sit on, pots, plates and knives, plus some food that the family had prepared, and then they sent the kids that had crowded around to get firewood and made and area to cook on. We chopped our veggies and V and R put together a great spaghetti dish. Still surrounded by children and joined by M's brother we ate our feast looking out to the river as the sun set.
We had some good conversations with the boys learning about the culture, customs and the various sects of Muslims here - Shiite, Sunni and Ismaili, they also shared their thoughts and aspirations. They were both so pure hearted and sincere, with a real appreciation of nature and the simple but important things in life.
One small disaster here - my hair was overgrown and I desperately needed the fringe trimmed so I could see again so with a lack of hairdressers we all went to the barber shop. R and S both got a shave and I asked for a trim. I was last and the others looked good so I was confident as I sat in the chair. The guy combed my hair forward and the snip - half my hair was cut into a huge new fringe like a lego-man haircut - grrr it had better grow quickly!
