The roof of the world
Trip Start
Aug 10, 2008
1
31
59
Trip End
Ongoing
Lhasa,
Tibet,
China
Thursday, November 6, 2008
Thurs Nov 6th / Friday 7th Nov - Lhasa
Whoo-hoo I was finally off to Tibet! I had been talking about Tibet since Beijing and it was great to be on the way. In preparation Zsuzsanna had been reading us the book called 'Into Thin Air' about a disastrous trip to Everest, but it made us hungry to see the magnificent peak. We took the overnight train, with sleeper seats and realised how important the permit was - we had to get it checked before we even got on the train. We also had to fill in a health declaration on the train because of the high altitude. It was a pretty straightforward journey, good views in the daylight and a pretty empty carriage meant it was a good nights sleep. Everyone was a little apprehensive about how the altitude would effect us, especially as they even had an oxygen supply available in all the carriages. A couple of Tibetan monks came into talk to us, and take our photos - but were very friendly.
When we arrived in Lhasa on Friday night we were greeted by our guide, Losang, who presented us with white Buddhist scarves as a welcome. We then met the driver and were taken to the hostel. We didn't really realise the altitude until we had to carry our bags up to the 4thfloor - a little more out of breath than usual!
Sat Nov 8th - Lhasa
Today we visited Jhokhang Temple & Bhakor Street/Square. It was an amazing time to visit, no tourists but hundreds of pilgrims, that swarm to Lhasa, and particularly this temple over the winter period.
All of us in front of everest at sun rise
There wasa mass of people queuing to get in, and moving around and many more posturing(?) outside. We felt a little
like we were intruding here but it seemed to be ok as long as way didn't get in the way. Inside was just as busy, but then you could climb to the top and there were fantastic views from the rooftop - you could see the square, and beyond the mountains - just beautiful. After we walked to a smaller local temple, and got some lunch where I tried the sweet milk tea for the first time (which then became a favorite). The only
sinister side was the number of military - stationed at every street corner, watching everything going on. The others were stopped from taking photos and had their cameras scrutinized, before they were asked to delete any photos that had the slighted speck of military personnel in the picture.
Later than night we had some great Tibetan chips (soon to be another favorite) and went to a culture show. This was much better than we imagined - the stage was taken by music, dancing, singing and costumes from every part of Tibet and the best thing was that the huge audience was made up of locals - it's free to get in and many people just came along for a drink and a good time. Some of the singers encouraged people up on stage and we it turned into something like a big Tibetan line dance.
Sun Nov 9th - Lhasa
Today was the jewel of Lhasa - the snapshot in everyone's photo album -Potala Palace. Many of former Dalai Lamas have tombs inside, and it's a maze of rooms with many treasures and religious objects. Losang explained much of what we saw, and helped with a better understanding of the history and Buddhism.
Bhakor Street/Square
Later we went to Norbulingka - the Dalai Lama's summer residence but we didn't really want to pay another entrance fee (that goes to the Chinese government) so instead we took a walk outside, enjoyed some time relaxing and talking in the sun outside and having a 'play' in the exercise 'playground' .Mon Nov 10th - Lhasa
We'd only planned to spend 2 days in Lhasa but loved the place so we tagged on an extra day. I'd been really intrigued by Tibetan Medicine so we'd asked Losang to help with the translation to go for a consultation. He took us to a busy hospital for Tibetan medicine, and after a quick explanation of my hips I paid 3 quai for a consultation where they asked questions and took my pulse. Then they explained that they could give me 2 types of medicine - 1 to take regularly for 3 times a day, the other for when I needed something more - it was good for my hips, blood pressure and general good feeling. All the medicine is herbal, so no side effects and can be taken for a long time without problems. They come in the form of little brown balls that you crush into a powder and swallow with water - they smell lovely but don't taste so great! So anyway, I paid for the medicine (£17 total for a month's supply plus the 'super pills') and joined a 3rd queue to get the medicine. Luckily someone beckoned be to the front and let me jump the queue - I think they were enjoying a chat with their friends and wanted to stay a bit longer!
Later that day, we went to a blind school set up by the organisation 'braille without borders'.
Me at base camp - whoo hooooooo
While we waited to be shown around, I played and talked a little with the kids. I had a couple of balloons which they loved and they were really smart. Before the school had been set up there had been nothing like it in Lhasa and the kids couldn't keep up with the mainstream schools. Now children come here from at any age - at the time this ranged from about 3 to 17 - and spent 3 years here. They lived at the school and Learnt braille in English, Chinese and Tibetan - it was amazing. I was really impressed with what they achieved here. When they finish, the children are able to join mainstream schools and continue their studies.Tues Nov 11th - Gyantse
Jian Zang Hotel
Today we left Lhasa for Gyantse, stopping on the way to see some amazing views at Yamdrok Lake - considered a sacred lake. It was clear and so blue, and it was interesting to see people using the streams around it to collect water, washing clothes and bathing. It was cold though - I also saw my first glaciers on this route!
In Gyantse itself we visited Kumbum Monastary - it was veryold and it was good to see the original features and paintings. The monastery is famous for it's very old, large and beautiful stupa which you can climb up it's many steps to get some great views. I'm not sure if it was the altitude but we were all really tired that night, and even took a nap before dinner!
Wed Nov 12th - Shigatse.
On the way to Shigatse, we visited a barley factory producing the national food - sampa.
One of the beautiful views on the journey
It was a tiny place with water powered mills but they were privileged to provide sampa for the 10th Panchen Lama.We reached Shigatse quite early because Losang needed to organise our Everest Permit here. We stayed in a hotel that seemed to be affiliated with the monastery - it was full of monks. I left the others to rest in the room and went and sat in the park and read a book in the sun, to the amusement of locals around me. Later we had a good wander around Shigatse, the market, small streets and alleyways. We walked around but not inside the Tashilhunpo Monastery which looked like a copy of the potala palace. I was amazed by the number of prayer wheels - they were along walkways all the way up the hills, the golden colour shining in the sun in streaks.
Later we went to a culture show, similar, but not as big as the one in Lhasa.
Thurs Nov 13th - Sheger, New Tingri/Dingri
Snowland Hotel
Today was our highest pass at 5248m (I think it was the Jasola pass), and our first glimpse of everest. It looked amazing in the crisp blue sky and I couldn't wait for a closer look. With the altitude came the cold
and the streams were iced over here - we stopped the jeep for a slide around on one part.
Both Zsuzsanna and Joel felt quite ill today from the altitude and barely moved from the room except to eat. This was the highest place we stayed at 4300m. Luckily I was fine, I had a bit of a wander, sat in the sun watching the world go by and in the evening I chatted to Losang and a couple of others around the stove in the guest house.
Potala Palace
Losang said he's pray for a clear view of everest tomorrow - he really wanted us to see it at its best.Fri Nov 14th - Old Tingri Am Do Hotel
What an amazing day. We left early so that we could get to a good spot to see everest at sunrise. We timed it just right and the weather was perfect. We were all freezing but it was worth it. From here we drove onto Rongbuk Monastery and the base camp. It was deserted but it was nice to have the view to ourselves. We walked up a small hill to the best viewpoint and battled with the wind and cold to soak in the view - I can'r describe it but will always remember it. Piercing sun, beautiful clear blue sky and pray flags
flapping in the wind. Everest, or Mt Qomolangma in Tibetan, was beautiful.
We stopped in Old Tingri and while the others rested I went for a walk down the one road town and got mobbed by children clinging to my legs, arms and hands! They were also asking for money but I ignored that and just played with them, chasing them and swinging them round, getting covered in
dirt and snot in the process!
We went up to a hill for a last view of Everest at sunset and settled back in the warm for dinner. Losang showed us a trick he had been telling us about where he rubs ashes into his arm to reveal the name of your future husband. Amazingly (hee hee) Zsuzsanna's showed us as Joel's name but mine was too hard to make out. It seemed to contain a 'z' but we couldn't work the rest out. Losang said it was because he'd eaten a bit of meat that day, so it wasn't very clear...! It was just a bit of fun but it got everyone in the guest house talking, laughing and trying to work it out.
Sat Nov 15th - Zangmu
Today was long. We needed to get to the border town but were stopped some distance away because the road was closed because it was under construction. We stayed in a little town for most of the day just hanging around waiting for it to reopen. When it did open it was a bit of an amazing and scary journey in - there are lots of rock slides here and at one point we were stopped while some unsafe rocks were exploded - quite cool to hear just ahead of us.
The border town itself was great - a mixture of Tibetans, Sherpas and Nepali. We hit the town with Losang and another guide and danced to a mixture of modern Tibetan, Nepali and Western music until the early hours. Everyone in the club was really friendly and enjoyed showing us all the dance moves - especially Mr Nepalis hip hop! There was also some dancers from the club who did a spot on the stage, including a guy who dripped candle wax ontohis bear chest, face and into his mouth - wow and ouch...
This was our last night in Tibet and the journey had gone so fast, I wished I'd had more time here but at the same time I was very lucky to be able to do it at all. The people and the land was beautiful but it really opened my eyes to hard hard they had it, and yet how warm they were. From passports, to taxes, tourist fees, regulations, nuclear testing and so much more that I won't go into- the Chinese government have a lot to answer for. I couldn't buy it in Tibet, but in Nepal I got the book 'My Land, My People' by the Dalai Lama which gives his views on the recent history.
We were lucky too to have a fantastic guide and driver. Losang was so genuine and pure of heart - in fact he reminded me very much of a good friend at home. It would be sad to day good bye to him tomorrow.
