Delirious From Museums, Churches, Art and Music
Trip Start
Aug 01, 2006
1
7
14
Trip End
Aug 13, 2006
Loading Map
Map Options
Show trip route
Hide lines
Moscow,
Russia
Monday, August 7, 2006
Moscow, Russia
Midnight
Dear Friends:
It is another relatively sleepless night for your narrator, having written extensively (and into the wee hours) about yesterday's program. I am grateful to enjoy a leisurely 9:30am departure from the hotel for the short drive to the Ostankino Palace.
The story of this place is one that resonates with us, as it is a story of forbidden love and the worship of art. Count Nikolay Sheremetev was a passionate patron of the arts, and he built this palace around the central idea of it housing a theatre
01 Rained Out
. Here he utilized a company of some 200 serf actors (they were his property) to produce plays of his choosing.He was smitten with one of the actresses, Praskovia Zhemchugova-Kovaleva, who had a dazzling coloratura soprano voice, and considerable acting skill. Against the approval of polite society he married someone who was essentially his slave, and gave her a new name and a title. The marriage was signed off by some member of the clergy to give it legal sanction, but the wife was never accepted by society. Three years after they married she died, and he lost all interest in his artistic endeavors, left the palace, and it fell into disuse.
It is amazing that this wooden Neo-Classical structure survived through the various revolutions, and it is carefully tended now. It is raining when we arrive (of course), and a sign outside says that because of humidity, and the adverse effect it has on the interior, the palace is closed whenever it rains. We stand outside the gates, looking in, and our guide happily informs us that since we have pre-paid and are there expecting admission, they will honor our booking.
We meet our palace guide, Sergei, who is definitely "family" (if you get my meaning)
02 Apollo, God of Music
. He is very passionate about the place, and puts a lot of feeling into his presentation of the historical facts and incidents relating to the building. He speaks only Russian, however, and our guide must translate everything he says.We move through the lower level formal halls wearing little booties to preserve the incredible parquet floors. Here wood has been carved and treated to look just like marble. Even the ornamental vases and wall decorations are made of wood and paper mache that has been lacquered to resemble porcelain or other materials.
We wind our way through the theatre workshop, where costumes and sets were created, and finally reach the main attraction-the theatre. It is an elliptical hall with a surprisingly deep stage. There is a beautiful painted ceiling surrounded by rows of Corinthian columns. The capacity was over 200 guests, which was only possible because the men would stand behind their seated wives.
Sergei explains how the floor was reconstructed in 1796 to allow raising the auditorium floor so the theatre could also be used as a ballroom. He talks about how the lighting system worked, and how special effects were created
03 Ostankino Television Tower
. Later we get to go backstage with him to see demonstrations of the wind machine, the thunder machine, the wave machine and the painted moving waterfall. All are surprisingly effective at conveying the proper impression. Count Sheremetev was so fond of special effects that he preferred the operas of Salieri over those of Mozart since Salieri's were always much more technically challenging.There is an exhibit of ancient instruments and costumes in the former dining room in celebration of the current Mozart commemorative year (I think he said it was 250). The property is available for weddings, and there is a most unfortunate purple pavilion on the lawn at the rear exit. It spoils the effect, and according to Sergei the loud music they play at such events also is injurious to the wood of the building. As I said, he truly is passionate about his job and we tip him handsomely. In fact I thrust the tip into his hands and make a mad dash for the nearest bathroom, as the last half hour has been somewhat excruciating since there were no facilities on the premises. Someone in the administrative building was kind enough to let me use theirs (probably taking pity on me for the pained expression on my face), and I return to the bus much relieved.
We return to Red Square and stop for lunch at the same shopping area we ate at yesterday
04 Faux Palace
. This time several of us go down the escalators three floors below ground to the food court. I have mutton with vegetables and a side of broccoli.Our eyes are arrested on the way into the food court by a store specializing in men's underwear. They have several mannequins outside the shop modeling their products with tennis balls (it seems) stuffed in the crotch! Women giggle and take photos with their hands cupped in suggestive places, and we gay men just stop and take photos, period. I return to the store after eating and inquire about the prices of the underwear, certain that they will look just the same on me as they do on the models (just like the underwear out of the International Male catalog does-sure 'nuf). I am shocked! The price of the cheapest pair on sale is US$50!
We gather again (without fresh underwear) at the huge Field Marshal's statue outside Red Square to enter the Kremlin. The lines are pretty long, but we manage to get in rather quickly thanks to skillful maneuvering by our guide. Now begins a truly grueling trek through some of the most fantastic sights in the entire world. It is grueling only because there is so much to absorb in a short amount of time, and there is no stopping or resting or drinking water or relaxing. It is just one constant push to the finish
05 Theatre Workshop
.We walk through the grounds to enter several of the historic churches. First is the Cathedral of the Assumption, the most important church in Moscow from the early 14th Century. We enjoy another vocal selection in the Cathedral of the Archangel. This time the men hum deep chords like an organ while a woman soloist sings a prayer. It is elegant and sublime, and this time there is no attempt to sell CDs. They finish the selection and file out of the Cathedral while the crowd remains silent and respectful. It was not the first of my moist eye moments during this tour.
The highlight of the day is the visit to the State Armory. The name makes it sound like it is just a lot of old weapons and uniforms. There are some of those, but there are also some of the most amazing treasures of the realm. There are Faberge Eggs, lavish gifts from Ambassadors, thrones, crowns, coronation gowns, and fairy-tale gilded carriages. Our visit concludes at 4:30pm, and we stagger back to the bus completely bushed.
I think it is a good thing that we were not able to arrange for the tickets to the circus for tonight. Tonight is a completely free night for people to do as they please, and we will try for circus tickets again tomorrow
06 Theatre Stage
. We return to the hotel, and Eva and I agree to meet later for dinner.We return to the Margarita restaurant we had identified on our restaurant-scouting day. It is small, and already packed at 8:00pm. We beg them to seat us anywhere, and finally they set up a little table for us right at the door-practically out onto the street. Within about 10 minutes another table clears and we are able to move to a more comfortable place.
We discuss every facet of this tour to date, and branch out to the topic of future tour ideas. Soon three young musicians enter to provide accompaniment to our meal. There is a pianist and two violins. At first I am horrified because he is banging away at the piano with anything but a delicate hand, and the violinists are working through old standards like "I Don't Know How to Love Him" from Jesus Christ Superstar.
It is such a small room (maximum capacity 40 we figure) that it is making conversation difficult, and then to add to the commotion they pass out plastic tubes like large salt shakers filled with plastic beads that rattle when you shake them. Every person in the place is supposed to shake his or her "instrument" along with the musicians, and get into the spirit
07 Backstage Effects
. I'm always the last to participate in such enforced group activities at concerts as when the performer indicates the audience should clap in time, but these music students are young and vivacious, and before we know it Eva and I are caught up in the spirit of the evening, and realize that it is something we might never have experienced - a real genuine encounter with locals in a small neighborhood restaurant rather than a large touristy atmosphere.After a break the musicians do a classical suite, starting with a selection from "The Four Seasons" by Vivaldi, and I begin to realize that these kids are really, really good! I really sit up and take notice for the first time, and appreciate them more and more as the evening wears on. Before I know it the time is 10:30pm and we must return to the hotel so I can write this entry and try to get some sleep.
It has been definitely the most tiring day so far, but I think most of the guys got through it beautifully. We will see how the spirit is on the bus tomorrow!
Goodnight, and hugs,
Dan
