Ranthanbore to Jaipur

Trip Start Oct 14, 2005
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Trip End Oct 31, 2005


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Monday, October 24, 2005

Dear Readers:

Rose very early for one more game drive in the tiger reserve. Our hopes dwindled as the morning wore on, and we did leave the park disappointed not to have seen a tiger. But we had a wonderful time at this very basic resort where the service far exceeded the amenities. We left the hotel around 11am with little box lunches of hard-boiled eggs and dry cheese sandwiches. Stopped to eat this spare meal at a roadside restaurant around 1pm. They threw the boxes into a ditch when we were finished and this cute family of pigs started rooting around in them immediately. I joked later on the bus that Toto Tours spares no expense on feeding our clients well. Everyone in jovial spirits.

Arrived in Jaipur at about 4:30pm. Driving through this predominantly Moslem district we passed through crowded bazaars that were absolutely teeming with people preparing to break their fast for Ramadan 01 Train Crossing
01 Train Crossing
. We check in and were absolutely dazzled by the hotel -- an old Maharaja's Palace. My room was unbelievable -- fit for a king, and my client and his partner who was having a birthday got an amazing room as well (an ornate umbrella over the bed). As the sun was setting we went to another market just to walk and experience the city life. The walk began by climbing up to a rooftop Krishna temple where they were chanting over loudspeakers. It was deafening, but it was worth it for the view in all directions, and the sight of the sunset. As we walked through the market children and beggars trailed us, natch.

Next we visited an emerald factory, and once again the guys dropped a boatload of money on gems. It was amazing to watch. The owner made me a gift of a small ring -- not a very good quality gem, but one that made me happy.

One of my clients had his 50th birthday tonight, and I sat next to him at dinner. I was so tired I could hardly speak a word, and we still had an organized celebration to attend later. I had asked my guide to try to locate a dancing guy who might do a bit of a strip tease. As I am learning is the case, people tell you they will get you exactly what you want, and then do whatever they want instead. I asked for a dancing guy -- I got one, but he was dressed as a girl in hideous, ghoulish makeup 02 Train Stop
02 Train Stop
. He came with two drummers. I got the hotel to agree to a private area on the terrace outside the birthday man's room.

In my first meeting of the dancer to grant approval the hotel manager was all sweet and nice, and asked me if I would also like to serve Dom Perignon champagne at the event. I said an emphatic NO -- that I didn't want to spend all the tour profits on one bottle of champagne. My tour guide told them to just have a cash bar.

After dinner we all repaired upstairs for the entertainment. It was about 10:30pm at this point. The accompaniment started, and it was the loudest crashing and drumming imaginable, and this "exotique" started dancing. I have to say that the dancer was pretty good and all the guys were having a great time, but she danced and danced, and brought us up individually to dance with "her" and after about 45 minutes the manager said that someone was sick and the noise was disturbing them, and that we would have to move the performance down to the central lawn of the hotel. Not one article of clothing had been removed at this point.

We had the cake ceremony, and I gave the client a gift, and as we were all cheering and singing happy birthday the waiters appeared with a tray with 21 champagne glasses on it and a bottle 03 Jaipur Arrival
03 Jaipur Arrival
. He unwrapped the tin foil on the bottle and held it out to my client who was accepting birthday wishes, and asked if he should open it. My client, thinking it was a gift from someone, said yes. The glasses were poured and toasts were made and then everyone went to bed.

At midnight there was a knock on the door of the birthday client, and a waiter stood there saying that they had to sign for the champagne, and that they had to sign now. The bill was Rupee 15,000 -- or about $350.00. They were sound asleep, and the birthday man told the waiter he would not sign and that he would sort it out in the morning.

Hugs,
Dan
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