Magnificent Taj Mahal
Trip Start
Oct 14, 2005
1
8
21
Trip End
Oct 31, 2005
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Agra,
India
Thursday, October 20, 2005
We hit the road this morning a little after 9am. I had sent the last bus and driver & assistant packing the night before because the sound system was really crappy, and the air conditioning had only two settings -- freezing and off. That driver had also accumulated one traffic violation during our tour yesterday, and I thought it best to insist on a better bus. We got a much better one with a sound system that works so everyone can actually hear what the guide is saying.
Leaving Delhi we ventured through the countryside en route to Agra. Once outside the city we had the feeling that we were seeing the India of stories and legends. Cows wandering freely on the busy highway with vehicles swerving to avoid them. Tractors going the wrong way one a four-lane highway to avoid having to go out of their way to cross into the lanes traveling the proper direction
01 Pee Stop
. A truck overturned on the highway, with workers carting the cargo of asbestos out and onto another truck. Another truck in roaring flames. Our guide said that the villagers had taken justice into their own hands. He surmised that the driver had probably hit someone, and in such cases the villagers retaliate immediately, and the driver has to run for his very life or be mobbed. A fight between two Tuk-Tuk drivers (those 3-wheeled motored taxis), with such consuming rage on their faces that they literally had their hands around each other's throats, as if a murder was about to take place. Temples and mosques and other amazing buildings out in the middle of nowhere. One elaborate marble palace which had been built as the home for a holy man who is reputed to have worked miracles. He is still living, and in the lap of luxury from all appearances. It is good to be a holy man!Hour after hour these scenes passed by, and were absolutely mesmerizing. Elsewhere in the bus there were raucous games of Truth or Dare being played and I would float back occasionally to participate in the hilarity, but I couldn't take my eyes from the passing scenes. To imagine that this life goes on day after day and year after year, with bathing and all bodily functions taking place in public with absolutely no thought as to who might be observing -- it gave me a great appreciation for everything we take for granted on the one hand, but also a sense of awe at the human spirit which can adapt to any circumstance and create a life worth living
01a Musicians
.We reached the hotel at 5pm, and were out the door at 5:45pm to have our first visit to the Taj Mahal at sunset. They are so careful to protect this amazing building that the busses must park in a remote lot so the fumes do not tarnish the gorgeous marble. We then proceeded on battery operated vehicles to the entrance. Security was as tight as at any airport these days -- no sharp objects of any kind are allowed inside the gates, not even a pen or a camera tripod. At some point some people tried to damage the Taj, so now they take extra precautions.
After running the security gauntlet, you approach through this massive structure which is worth a trip to India itself to see, and it has a huge vaulted arch framing the first view of the full Taj Mahal. It took my breath away! You see this thing in photos and postcards and movies all the time, but nothing can prepare you for the size of it in person. As one well traveled and erudite man in the group said: This is certainly the most beautiful building in the world. I couldn't argue with him at all. It is massive beyond belief, and the photos don't capture all the detail and the gorgeous colors of the precious stone designs above the entryways.
02 Classic Look
The light was perfect for a group photo, so we quickly organized one and then had about 45 minutes of free time to wander -- knowing that we would be coming back again the next morning to see the Taj at sunrise (we're leaving the hotel at 6am). So I took it easy and didn't try to rush through and see everything. I took some great photos, and didn't even crowd into the line that was filing through to see the inside room. I am really happy that we are going to be able to spend more time there in the morning, before breakfast.
The group is really bonding beautifully, and I'm feeling comfortable with everything now that I am out of Delhi and away from the two competing tour service providers who were vying for my future business. I feel like I can focus completely on the group now, and this morning was the first time we were actually all together at one time. So, I will say goodnight, looking forward to whatever tomorrow might bring.
Hugs,
Dan
