We Love Amed
Trip Start Feb 18, 2010
93Trip End Ongoing
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So this time around we signed up for the fast boat back to Bali! We found a small speed boat that was going to a small town called Amed, located about an hour north of Padang Bai. We said goodbye to Gili T and boarded the boat that would soon bring us great surprises! After about 30 minutes out at sea, we came upon a huge group of dolphins swimming and jumping all around. There were a few local fishermen out so we figured the dolphins must be feeding. The captain slows down so we can enjoy them, both far and near, some as close as right next to the boat!
As we we're all oohhh-ing and ahh-ing, one of the local guys on our boat throws out a fishing line. Soon we're distracted by a commotion when we realize that this guy is fishing and that he's caught something!
He starts pulling the line in (with his hands) and we see a fish jumping out of the water coming towards us. He pulls it up onto the boat and it's a small tuna! So great!! Then we wonder, where is he gonna put the fish on this small boat filled with people? Well, he just opens up the storage bin where some tools and life vests are and just chucks the fish in there and shuts the door.
On the boat we are admiring one of the local guy's tattoos. He has a huge Balinese god (I can't remember which one!) on his back. We start talking to him about tattoos and we start thinking maybe I should get a Balinese tattoo. He gets so excited, introduces himself as Dilly, and says yes, he will gladly introduce us to Amed's premier tattoo artist!
We reach Amed and stay in the first place we find. It's nice and the price is right although it's not on the beach. We were assured by the guys on the boat that all the places right on the beach are out of our budget, which is pretty much true as prime beach spots are occupied by a
few compound style resorts and local houses and warung. It's not until later that night, while walking down the beach drinking Bintang and collecting the tiniest most beautiful shells ever, that we notice two small bungalows sitting right off the sand with little porches tucked in a little garden right in front of the best off-the-beach snorkeling spot in Amed. We figure they're probably too much money but agree that we should come back tomorrow morning and find out anyway, because how awesome would it be to walk out of the front door all geared up for snorkeling and right into the water?!
We take our rented motorbike out of town and go exploring up into the coastal mountains. Up, up, up we go. The poor 100cc motorbike trying desperately to carry our fat American asses up this steep slope. I have to get off and walk at certain spots! But the views are breathtaking and
the air is nice and cool. We give the bike a break and coast all the way back down to town.
The next day we take the motorbike back over to "Shell Gardens" bungalows to inquire. It turns out this place is only $10 (the same price we're paying now) and includes breakfast!! The interior is homely but who cares! We rent another motorbike from here since we'll have to return ours to the first place. To get back, I drive the other motorbike on a real road!! Sure I'm staying all the way to the left and only going 20km/hr but who cares?! It feels great to drive it!!
We check out and check in. It rains all day (i think only our 2nd or 3rd totally rainy day this whole trip so far) so we just sit on the porch and watch the fishermen push their boats in and out of the water while we read and pass the time away.
When the rain let's up we go to dinner at a nearby Balinese restaurant where a local woman we met cooks. She said she would fix us a special balinese feast! When we arrived we were greeted with palm and flower hats and served a ridiculous amount of food (mee goreng, nasi campur, mixed vegetables, fish satay, suckling pig, fried tofu and tempe, green salad with Balinese sauce, and coconut and brown sugar dumplings) which we of course polished off like two good little piggies!
Hopefully tomorrow will be sunny so we can snorkel!!