Troubles in Tumbes

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  Tumbes, Peru
Wednesday, November 26, 2008

this is a border crossing from the Ecuadorian side, it means you can't simply take one bus all the way through. Our first leg was from Cuenca to Machala and we were able to hop in the 7am bus which got us off to an early start. The bus was very comfortable and four hour trip flew by in no time. Once we arrived in Machala we had to make our way by taxi to another bus terminal to catch a bus to the boarder, fortunately taxi's were available and the short trip only cost one Dollar.
 
When we arrived at the new bus terminal, it was milling with people and buses coming and going. For the first time I noticed we were the only Western travelers around, until a scraggy looking bloke wearing shorts, t-shirt and sandals approached me. He started by asking if I spoke German to which I relied no and eventually he started speaking to me in English. He asked the usual introductory questions like 'where are you from?' and then began his story of how he was robbed of all his positions in Peru and was now left stranded. He was going on about how dangerous it is in Tumbes and that you should never get into a vehicle on your own as the drivers often pull out knives and guns and rob you, and that going to the police is useless as they are all in it together.
 
All the while Inge-Marie was trying to buy us tickets for the next bus with very limited Spanish, this guy was going on and on. I tried to sympathise with him and basically get him to bugger-off but his motives became clear after he burst out into tears saying all is holiday photos were gone and he started asking for money to buy a bus ticket. His story might have had some truth to it but the fact that he was covered in dirt had hardly any teeth and the bus attendants were waving there fingers for me to get away from him led me to believe he might just have been taking a chance. Once we'd bought our tickets I handed him a few coins (at which he snorted) and got onto the bus as fast as possible.
 
We had heard that you needed to be careful crossing borders overland as many people were robbed and ripped-off so we were prepared, but all this guys ranting and tears started getting me a little worried. The bus to the boarder was far less luxurious and packed with the usual people standing in the isle. Fortunately the lady bus attendant knew we were getting off at the Ecuadorian emigration office, which was just a little building in the middle of nowhere, and let us know when we arrived and helped us to get our luggage. The process to get your exit stamp was straight forward and in a few minutes we were ready to leave. Since the buses don't wait for you at emigration you find another mode to transport or walk the 4km to the Peruvian border post.
 
There were many touts around all trying to get you to use taxi's and after not seeing any buses we decided to take a taxi which didn't sound too expensive. So along with the young English speaking salesman we drove the five kilometers to the boarder town of Huaquillas which is basically just a road with fresh produce and clothing stalls lining both sides of the street. Apparently there was a fiesta on the go so the roads packed with people carts and vehicles. It all seemed very chaotic and we stuck out like sore thumbs dragging our luggage. We had to walk as far as the bridge with was the official border and only then a further 2km to get to the Peruvian emigration office. The young salesman who was obviously working for a tip hung around while we got to the bridge and told us we should now take another taxi to the emigration office and the head to the next town, Tumbles to get a mini-bus or colectivo to Mancora.
 
All of a sudden a taxi or rather an unmarked car arrived and we were told the price would be Soles 20 (about $8) to Tumbes, which sounded fair as the taxi would wait for us at immigration and then take us to get a bus to Mancora. I was a little uncomfortable that it wasn't a marked taxi and that the driver had a 'friend' sitting in the front seat with him. The friend seemed friendly enough and even though couldn't speak English we manage to understand what he was trying to tell us.
 
As we started getting closer to Tumbles the 'friend' asked if we needed to go to an auto bank since you can't pay for buses with US Dollars. I was happy not to as I exchange a little money at the boarder and though I would have enough to pay for the taxi but decided it would probably be a good idea as we might need extra money to pay for the bus tickets.
 
We stopped at the auto bank and after having most our ATM cards rejected finally managed to withdraw some cash. As we pulled away from the bank the 'friend' said we should lock the doors and gestured that we could get robbed as thieves watch people that come from ATM's. This was beginning to sound like a real dangerous place. We drove on for a few minutes and eventually stopped on a side road leading to the main road. I handed the 'friend' the 20 Soles and he handed it straight back and went off in Spanish about something or other. I tried handing it back but he mentioned that the price was 80 Soles and that the ATM stop was not originally included and that the price was per person.
 
Inge-Marie who now speaks more Spanish than I do said to him that it was agreed to pay 20 Soles and that was all we were going to pay! He started getting very irate and spun around in his front seat and started raising his voice and blabbering on in Spanish. I decided to try and avoid any nasty situations by offering him 40 soles but he wouldn't take the money. When I then tried to open my door he gestured to close it immediately.
 
I could see this all getting vary nasty with us outnumbered, in a foreign country and unable to speak the language so I shoved 60 Soles ($20) and said 'finito!' and got out of the car. I didn't want us to end up like the German chap at the other boarder. He muttered something but by then we were both out the car and grabbing our luggage from the boot. As if he hadn't already completely ripped us off the 'hijo de puta'. then tried to get us to take a taxi, obviously one of his buddies, for $70 each to Mancora. What a joke!
 
We very quickly distanced ourselves from him and managed to quickly find a mini-bus (colectivo) taxi to Mancora for only a few Dollars. This clearly was not going to go down as one of our best days in South America, but once again has taught us some valuable lessons: be sure that the price is agreed before departure, double check and triple check if necessary - ensure that you make eye contact with the person you have to pay in the end and receive a firm nod of agreement to ensure that he agrees. Make sure that the price is not per person and whether extra stops will cost more. Always negotiate and agree the price before making any move in the direction of his offering (e.g. vehicle). Also never let anyone rush you into a taxi or into a deal.

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