Two sides of Ko Pha-Ngan

Trip Start Dec 14, 2007
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Trip End Mar 16, 2009


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Friday, April 11, 2008

Koh Phangan is know and the little sister of the more well know Ko Sumui and is situated 45 minutes north of Ko Sumui by ferry. Koh Phangan  like Ko Samui still has all the beautiful beaches and scenery but typically catered for the backpacker market where Ko Sumui is a little more upmarket with all the major hotel chains present.
 
Koh Phangan  is probably best known for its famous full moon beach parties where at times 30,000 raver's descend on the island once a month to party the night away. Due to the success of these parties they seem to occur more frequently and it now seems that every phase of the moon is reason for a party. Coincidently the 12 April is half moon and from the flyers and posters in town it seems a big party has been organised and we've decided that a visit to Koh Phangan wouldn't be complete without a good party!
 
Our hotel was situated on the south western side of the island on a beach called sunset beach Approaching Koh Phangan
Approaching Koh Phangan
. So needless to say each afternoon was spend sipping drinks in a hammock and watching the sun sink into the ocean. Our first night was however not as serene as the bed we slept on was as hard as a ping pong table, I though after our hard bed experience in Ko Lipe that we would be used to rigid nights sleep up the night was spent tossing and turning trying to get comfortable. By morning I had decided I rather find another hotel than have another sleepless night and marched down to the reception to complain. They were very apologetic and realised immediately what the problem was! Apparently Thai mattresses are not two sided and only one side is meant to be slept on, the other is simply a wooden board and the staff turned the mattress without knowing this! We felt a little stupid that we didn't figure that out and even more silly for spending 3 nights sleeping on a wooden board in Ko Lipe! We'll put that down as a valuable lesson.
 
We did make up for the bad nights sleep with a 2 for 1 massage special at the resorts Spa. For a measly 390 Bhat (R100) we both had a very relaxing full body aromatherapy massage while the waves lapped the shore below us and the birds chirped in the trees above, now this is how you relax. This was the best value we'd got for our money since starting the trip.
 
To get around the island we rented a little 125cc off-road scooter with a great spray job the day after we arrived and started exploring The hotel
The hotel
. To get from one end of the island to the other only takes a few hours but some of the roads are not in great condition and had Inge-Marie clinging to me with white knuckles especially when we had to make our way up and down the very steep hills. Apparently it didn't make things any easier for her when I geared down to make one of the steep incline and inadvertently popped a wheelie with Inge-Marie on the back. Ooeps.
 
We visited a few waterfalls that were not too spectacular due to the lack of rain, drove past some lovely little temples and passed a few lazy elephants. The interior of the island was extremely hot and humid and each time we stopped for a little sightseeing we were instantly drenched in perspiration. So we both agreed to keep moving and at least prevent dehydration.
 
The restaurants on the island were much more cosmopolitan than the other islands we had visited and included a good mix of Italian, English, Swedish, Indian and of course good old Thai restaurants. We were even lucky enough to find a nice restaurant around the corner from our hotel that served a hearty bowl of oats and honey for breakfast.
 
When half-moon night arrived we were ready for a good party, started the evening by watching yet another beautiful sunset over a few drinks and then made our way to the main beach where many of the bars are situated Our little bungalow
Our little bungalow
. This stretch of beach was the venue for the famous full moon party and was lined with many little stalls selling all sorts of drinks. The most popular of these drinks seemed to be something called a bucket which came in many different varieties but basically consisted of some or other hard liquor and a mixer. The contents of which is emptied into the bucket with some ice and drunk through straws, clearly a recipe for hangover. The stalls were all individually decorated by their owners with some very funny signage and descriptions of what their buckets might lead to.
 
After some deliberation and much persuasion from the many hilarious touts manning bucket stalls we decided to share a Jack Daniels bucket. This was a little more expensive that the Thai whisky version which seemed way too cheap to be good for you. We slowly sipped our bucket and enjoyed the show on the beach.
 
The half-moon party was held a little way out of town at another venue so after we'd finished our "bucket" we scootered off to find the party. The entire outdoor party venue was covered in fluorescent blue light and luminous painting and decorations which gave the place a space ship feel. Drinks were much more expensive and this clearly opened the market for the narcotic dealers and we were asked by many friendly punters if we'd like ecstasy, cocaine or marijuana or anything else, this clearly explained some of the strange behaviour around us Typical day on Phangan
Typical day on Phangan
. Apparently many people sample some of the more organic hallucinogenic available which often have result in them spending a few days in the local mad house. It didn't take long for us to hit the dance floor and enjoy the music and after a few hour's we were ready to throw in the towel. Enough fun was had and it was time to make our way home because the next day was going to just as big a party.
 
Another event falling over our Thailand visit was that the Thai New Year also called Songkran. The holiday celebrated every year between the 13th - 15th April to celebrate the lunar New Year. Buddha images are bathed with water, monks and elders receive the respect of younger Thais by sprinkling of water over their hands, and basically a lot of water is thrown about. The main celebrations were held in the islands biggest town Thong Sala so after a later breakfast we made out way to town to join in on the celebrations. Before we got 1km form the hotel we were both soaked, the streets were lined with people joining in on the celebrations and armed with water pistols, buckets, hosepipes and anything else that can hold water.
 
The closer we got to Thongsala the more water there was and it was almost impossible to avoid being hit by bucket loads of water, we just rode though slowly and enjoyed the cool water shower. By the time we reached town the party was in full swing, like one big water fight. Shops brought out big speakers and every street had a party going. The carried on like this till we left at 5pm and we anticipated that it would continue till late in the evening. It was a refreshing alternative to the New Years parties we were familiar with where the focus in on one point in the evening and then things wind down quickly after that. This was the opposite where the party just seems to get better and better.
 
The next day we caught a ferry and then bus to Bangkok and seeing that the celebrations go on for 3 days we might still be in for a shower or two?
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Comments

magdahilligan
magdahilligan on Apr 16, 2008 at 06:19AM

What a party
Wow! I wish I was there. Inge you look beautiful and so relaxed is it the buckets doing the trick? Ryan you forgot to shave buckets seems to have a different effect on you! Thank you for photos I am so envious.
love, Mom

carstens
carstens on Apr 22, 2008 at 11:39AM

Baie beter as Hermanus
Haai, dit lyk defnitief baie beter as die normale nuwejaars op Hermanus!! Geniet elke oomblik. Janine en Justice

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