Estancia Don Emilio

Trip Start Dec 14, 2007
Trip End Nov 04, 2008

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Where I stayed
Don Emilio

Flag of Paraguay  ,
Tuesday, February 19, 2008

The bus ride from Asuncion to Coronel Oviedo (of about 130 kms) was everything but nice. The bus company called "RYSA" and which actually sounds like "risa" (laugh) in Spanish is a terrible one. They drive like maniacs, their buses are dirty, their air conditioning does not work and its guaranteed that someone will throw up during the trip due to the curves.

We probably made a record with 3 ladies being sick!

So after that episode we were seriously looking for a good breath of clean oxygen...and boy did we get it!

The estancia is about 15 kms from the town of Coronel Oviedo, a short taxi ride. When we arrived we were greated by Ņa (doņa) Virginia who is the cook and makes sure everything works. She is a charming lady always making sure that we were comfortable and constantly serving cold water and lemonade to fight the sticky weather.

Much to our surprise we were the only people there (as tourists). Apparently the high season is over now for these estancias and they now wait for the week of Easter when everything will be packed again. Obviously we did not complain as it meant having everything to ourselves for the 2 days we planned to stay there.

The pictures show the pattern of our first day there. Whoever knows us will already know that we like our food, and believe us...Ņa Virginias cooking is top notch, and we simply could not get hungry. The offer of breakfast, lunch, tea and dinner was no joke. We could have survived a full day with any of the 4!

We started with a nice dip in the swimming pool (called "pileta" here), with some lemonade on the side. We didnt include any close ups of the pictures in the pool as we have over indulged in great food lately and we dont want to scare anyone!

On the food side, there was always plenty of meat on the table. Obviously the Estancia has their own animals so its all "fresh from 5 metres away". Also there was an amazing amount of different tropical fruits and great fresh vegetables. Finally with each meal there was a different assorment of desserts, from the fresh cheese (which they supplied one per day) to French inspired typicals such as "Ile Flotant" and coffee caramel. All the desserts where originate from the French grandmother, and some were much better than the ones we tried back in Paris!

For anyone planning to visit Paraguay we warmly recommend staying at the Estancia Don Emilio, probably the best 2 days of our 2 months trip yet. Pure relaxation and horse riding. Their web page is:

Vero adds:

Actually, it was very nice to see that Marcos took such an interest (and liking) in riding, and even more, he managed very well! He was the one pushing for an hour of practice in the fenced yard, which caused our leader to watch with astonishment: there we were chasing these horses up and down in trott and galopp! Dont forget, it was about the 3rd time Marcos was on a horse! So, next time out in the field, he could not get enough of the galopp, which made the ride enjoyable for me also (apart from the wonderful scenery)! That was so different to any other place I have been riding before: Nowhere they would give you a horse and let you "practice" in their front yard. I warmly recomment any passionate rider to go to an estancia in Paraguay! And dont you let yourself put off by those boys riding in flip flops, chance is big they know much more about horses then you do :)
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