Chilling in BA

  Buenos Aires, Capital Federal District, Argentina
Monday, November 24, 2008

Have I said this before? Probably but I'll say it again....I love Buenos Aires! I arrived here from Salta exactly a week ago and stayed at a cosy B&B in the San Telmo neighbourhood. San Telmo is the bohemian quarter of BA, full of antique and design shops, cafes, restaurants and bars. The B&B I stayed at actually faces Plaza Dorrego, the neighbourhood's main square, and the days here were just filled with tango and flamenco music. I didn't do very much during my week here. I simply took my time exploring the various burroughs of BA. I spent one afternoon walking around the centre (Centro) with the Plaza Mayo,

Avenida de Mayo

Florida (a busy pedestrian shopping street) and the areas around the main avenue (Avenida 9 Julio; the one with 16 lanes). I also visited the cathedral one afternoon which doesn't at all look like a cathedral from the outside. The tomb of San Martin, the nation's liberator was really impressive.

BA Cathedral

The buildings are truly grand and yes the pavements are in a bad state and the traffic is horrendous but the buzz in this city is addictive. Another afternoon was spent strolling around Puerto Madero, BA's old docklands that are now the most fashionable address in the city.

Puerto Madero

That afternoon, I ended up at the Plaza de Mayo and watched the solemn but impressive march of the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo.

The Mothers of Plaza de Mayo

I would spend the mornings on the B&B's roof terrace (it's nice and shady and has a great view of San Telmo), then go for a long walk in the afternoon to one of the burroughs and then find a terrace somewhere for a long and lazy lunch and just watch the world go by! Wonderful. The B&B had a happy hour every evening and all the guests would get together for drinks. It's a great way to meet the other guests and we would all go out for dinner to a nearby restaurant. One evening, a bunch of Americans suggested a little cafe around the corner called Cafe San Juan. We went there and it was packed with locals. I had the most divine rabbit pate and sirloin steak with mushrooms. The pate was especially exquisite! OMG factor: 9! Another evening, we sat out on the Plaza Dorrego till 2am just enjoying the music. A small flamenco group performed all night; the passion for their music and dance was almost tangible.

Flamenco dancer

Totally breathtaking.

The highlight of the week was definitely yesterday, Sunday. That's the day when San Telmo really comes to life. The whole square and Defensa Street are packed with stalls selling antiques and other curiosa, and a huge variety of street performers.

Street performers on Sunday III, San Telmo

It is an amazing experience. The sights and sounds, and throngs of people are simply fascinating.

Street performers on Sunday II, San Telmo

As I walked down Defensa, I heard someone call my surname. I thought I was dreaming. I looked around and didn't see anyone I knew (or so I thought). I kept walking and heard my surname again. The guy who called out my name took off his sunnies and baseball cap and OMG... it was my old boss, Willem and his partner Marlous (they'd just arrived in BA). I knew they were in town and we were going to meet up for dinner that night but to bump into them amidst the huge crowds in San Telmo was amazing. We spent the entire afternoon together, walking around the stalls, then stopped for some wine and lunch at the Plaza Dorrego where we had a great vantage point for some unbeatable people-watching.

Marlous, Willem and me @ San Telmo

Later that afternoon, a samba band with 40 drummers paraded down Defensa Street, right in front of the B&B. It was awesome to watch. There was a large crowd and many were dancing or swaying along to the beats.

Samba band

Where else in the world would you have the samba, the tango and the flamenco all within the same square?! That evening, I took Willem and Marlous to Cafe San Juan (I just had to have that rabbit pate again!) and we had a fantastic dinner: fab food and wine, and awesome company. After dinner, we went back to the square where we were treated to an unforgettable display of 'the soul of BA', the tango. The music was loud and the locals got together and danced the whole evening.

Tango at night, San Telmo

The passion, the sensual movements and the nimble footwork were absolutely stunning. OMG factor: 10! I was just blown away by this marvellous display.

I'm leaving BA today for a three-day visit to the Iguazu Falls. I'll be flying to the Argentinian side of the falls but I'll be staying on the Brazilian side. I'll be back in BA thereafter for my last six nights, then head home to Amsterdam.

PS/ This is a delayed entry. I got stuck while uploading this blog last Monday. I'm now back in BA after three days in Iguazu - that blog will follow this one shortly.

Cheers,
Keith