A little piece of heaven

Trip Start Aug 06, 2008
Trip End Dec 04, 2008

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Flag of French Polynesia  , Society Islands,
Thursday, October 9, 2008

I remember a quote by the late Pavarotti (bless his soul) when he first visited Pangkor Laut, an upscale resort in Malaysia. He said that when he saw the island, he wept because it was so beautiful - obviously, the resort uses that quote profusely in their ads. Well, I can definitely relate to those emotions. When we arrived in Bora Bora, I guess the excitement of being here combined with the baffling beauty of this place made me a bit teary-eyed. I just can't believe I'm actually here - I keep reminding myself every hour or so. Bora Bora is everything I thought it would be... and more. I've seen pictures of it in countless publications, documentaries and travel programmes but it's not till you're actually here that you begin to fathom just how magical this place is. I mean, I've been to many places around the world that have similar surroundings but Bora Bora just has, let's call it, the 'X-factor'. I think it's a mix of the lagoon's breathtaking shades of turquoise, aquamarine, sapphire, emerald, fluorescent green and electric blue - you could spend a day or two here just trying to get your mind around the myriad of colours; the impressive rock face of Mt. Otemanu that towers over the whole lagoon; the crystal clear water and pristine white sandy beaches; the low-rise resorts (that give the place a very exclusive feel) with their idyllic thatched roof overwater bungalows; the constant scent of frangipani and tiare Tahiti (the national flower that's used for almost everything); and the fact that you're in the middle of the South Pacific! I can now understand why people are willing to spend a large chunk of their life-savings just to make a trip out here. It's really like a little piece of heaven on Earth - I wouldn't know how else to describe it.

Frits and I arrived in Papeete on Tahiti last Saturday after a six-and-a-half hour flight from Sydney on Air Tahiti Nui. It's funny how you go back a day when you cross the International Date Line from west to east. We left on a Sunday morning and arrived on a Saturday evening. I changed the time and date on everything, including my iPod. It refused to play a song after I'd made the date change. When I brought the date forward, it worked again - guess iPods were not designed to play music in the 'past'. Weird, eh? I must send Steve an e-mail. Anyway, we arrived safely in Papeete in the dark. I just think it's amazing how navigation systems work so brilliantly to steer a plane precisely to a tiny dot in the middle of this massive ocean. We were greeted at the airport with garlands made of fragrant tiare Tahiti. We then made our way to the airport hotel. The next day, we got up early to catch our 7:40am flight to BOB (Bora Bora's airport code). When I opened the blinds, I was just stunned by the view. We faced the airport and its runway but beyond that loomed the deep blue Pacific and the dramatic peaks of Moorea. Wow!

The 45-minute flight to BOB was quite special. You could sense the excitement of the passengers as the plane descended through the clouds. As we broke free of the last cloud, a magnificent vista awaited us: a massive multi-coloured lagoon bordered by lush green atolls, the fringes of which broke the waves from the open ocean, and a mountainous island in the middle crowned by steep lofty peaks. What a sight! OMG factor 10++. The airstrip was on one of the atolls, which meant that you had to take a boat to wherever you were heading. We were met at the arrivals hall with more garlands and ushered to a waiting boat. Our luggage was taken care of and we were whisked away into the lagoon to our resort, the Sofitel Motu. The boat ride to the resort was nothing short of stunning. The colours of the lagoon and the shape of Mt. Otemanu kept changing as we sped along. Awesome. We were greeted at the resort's pier by the lovely Rebecca and a guitarist (who also doubles as the resort's bouncer I believe). The Sofitel Motu is situated on a private island in the lagoon, with a small number of bungalows scattered over the hill, beach and over the water. We opted for an overwater bungalow (I can't imagine coming all this way and not staying in an overwater bungalow!!) and it was just beautiful. It had a large bedroom and bathroom; a living room with a coffee table which featured a glass floor, making it possible to see the fish in the clear water below; and two decks, an upper deck in the shade and a lower deck with deck chairs and steps which led down to the water (you could go snorkelling right off the deck) and an outdoor shower. OMG factor: 9+. I kept pinching myself for the first half hour as I just could not believe I was here and what I was seeing. The colours of the lagoon were quite simply mystifying. We sat out on our deck for the rest of the day and just gaped at the scenery and the many fish that swam by below us. That evening, we had dinner at the resort's only restaurant and the food was superb. The foie gras with a dark chocolate mousse was gorgeous while the mahi mahi tuna, straight out of the lagoon, was grilled to perfection. I also ordered a bottle of Chablis which I thought was very reasonably priced at EUR 20. When the bill came, I was confronted with my (emm, rather pricy) mistake; EUR 20 was for a glass and the bottle was actually more than EUR 80!! Oh well, serves me right for constantly nodding off during those French classes I had years ago (by the way, everything in French Polynesia is in French; you're lucky if you manage to find a local who speaks decent English).

On Monday, we set off after breakfast in a canoe (a first for both me and Frits). It took a while before we finally got it together as various factors complicated things, such as the waves from speedboats, avoiding the shallow coral reefs, and uhhhh, two terribly stubborn people who both think they know better. Anyway, we cleared the reefs just off the beach and away we went. We didn't see a lot though. I think we were both too fixated on not capsizing (because of the waves), co-ordinating our strokes and keeping our course! We made it around the island in about an hour and we were pretty happy to haul that canoe back onto the beach. That was not a very successful endeavour. I then grabbed my snorkelling gear and swam around the reefs for more than an hour. The corals weren't too spectacular (guess I'm spoiled after seeing those mind-blowing reefs in Malaysia and Australia) but there were large numbers of multi-coloured fish such as the emperor angelfin, triggerfish and parrotfish. I then spent the afternoon on our deck, enjoying the view, listening to my iPod and looking out for black-tipped reef sharks; I saw quite a few of them as they leisurely swam by our deck just before sunset.

The following day, we went for an island tour which included shark and manta ray feeding. We first visited the edge of the lagoon, a shallow area near one of the wave-breaking atolls. In the distance, huge waves from the open ocean pounded on the atoll while we calmly bobbed up and down in the relative calm of the lagoon. One of the two guides jumped into the water with a bucket full of fish. We jumped in along with him and within minutes, we were surrounded by a school of black-tipped reef sharks, some up to two meters long. They swam around us for a bit, checking us out, then ventured closer. I was quite surprised when one of them swam up to within two meters of me, then made a quick turn - I discovered why when one of the guides hauled me back into the boat: I had cut my foot on the sharp coral and though it was only a small cut, the little blood that emanated from the wound was more than sufficient to make a shark gauge if I was suitable for lunch! We then circumnavigated the island and judging by the silence, I think everyone on the boat was just absolutely mesmerised by the astounding scenery. Our last stop was near our resort in a shallow spot. As the boat anchored, about a dozen large manta rays glided by beneath us. What a stunning sight! We were soon in the water swimming around these gentle, inquisitive creatures. They swam up to me several times and hovered around for a bit, long enough to allow me to run my hands across their backs. OMG factor: 10+++. The largest mantas had wingspans of more than two meters with tails of about the same length. This was definitely one of my most amazing experiences so far during this trip. We were dropped back at our resort around noon and we spent the rest of the afternoon lazing on the deck and taking in the views.

We spent this morning on our deck, just absorbing that fabulous view for the last time. Later in the morning, we flew back to Tahiti where we are right now. We'll be leaving Tahiti tonight for Easter Island, where we'll be touring around for four days.

I've been keeping up with the financial news and what's happening right now is just horrific. Anyway, I've decided not to think about it too much, especially what lays ahead of me when I get back to 'reality' at the end of the year. I'm just going to absorb and enjoy each and every moment of this trip. No use bothering myself with things that I can't do anything about right now, right? One thing at a time, and the next thing on my mind is seeing those statues on Easter Island!

Take care. Till my next blog!

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dennis7bergen on

Hey Keith,

I'v been reading your blog for the past few days, but what you've seen on Bora Bora is absolutely stunning. Makes me forget I'm here in this cold and foggy country!

Enjoy your stay!

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