Vagabonding in Bohemia

Trip Start Mar 31, 2011
Trip End Jul 05, 2011

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Flag of Czech Republic  , Bohemia,
Sunday, April 24, 2011

We got to Cesky Krumlov on Sunday (4-25) with no problems, but we had a hell of a time trying to find our hostel. The hostel only provided directions from the bus stop, but we had read that we could take a local bus from the train station to the bus station. Not sure if the local buses in Cesky weren't running because it was Easter Sunday, or if they just don't run anymore ever. Either way, we were definitely not able to take a bus.  So we walked for about 45 minutes from the train station to the bus station, then followed the directions another 20 minutes to get to the hostel. Needless to say, we were pretty tired of walking and carrying our backpacks by the time we arrived. Unfortunately, our hostel owner seemed to think of Easter as a time to lay on the river and get trashed, so we had to wait for 3 hours for our room to be ready. We decided to leave our packs in the hostel office and check out the town.

Cesky Krumlov is more amazing than I could have expected. Nestled in the hills along a beautiful river, every single corner and road is a perfect picture. The old town square was not early as large as most of the others we've seen, probably because the main attraction was obviously the huge castle along the water. There was a huge Easter market in the square, so we walked around and sampled a bunch of stuff, and ended up getting a big block of fresh cheese. The markets in Europe are the greatest thing ever-- everything is cheap and delicious. It was free (!) to go into the castle courtyards, so we wandered around in the castle and the gardens for a few hours. The views from "Most naPlasti " (the walkway from the castle to the gardens) were absolutely extraordinary, and we couldn't have asked for better weather/light. We probably could have spent the entire day staring at the view of Cesky Krumlov from that castle. Instead, we headed back down the hill to the hostel to move our bags into the room and grab our jackets.

Then we headed to dinner at a nice little Czech restaurant right on the water that had beautiful views of the castle. I ordered some mead, which is hot wine made from honey, and it was really good! We ordered a Bohemian feast that consisted of rabbit, smoked meat, millet, potato cakes, dumplings, potato, and salad. As strange as some of that sounds, it was really good! Because we were trying to kill time until dark, we ordered a bowl of Garlic soup and some homemade pretzels. Garlic soup is basically French Onion soup with garlic instead of onions. And without the cheese on top. Still has the crouton things in it though! After dinner, we climbed up one of the hills and waited for dark so we could check out the lights on the castle. Just like we expected, the castle was brilliantly lit and there were people lined up everywhere with tripods. 

The next morning, we packed up and walked back to the bus station to catch the bus to Prague. We had checked out the hours/time tables the day before, so we knew there was a bus to Prague at 9 and we thought that the bus station opened at 7. We arrived at about 8:30 to buy tickets, but the bus station was closed! No signs anywhere (that we could figure out), but we found some other tourists who said that you could buy tickets on the bus. Unfortunately, Dad didn't have any koruna, so he had to run around trying to find an ATM in a big panic. Luckily, he found one and we bought tickets for two of the last seats! So now we are on the bus, and the scenery is lovely as ever. We will be in Prague for 3.5 days, and I cant wait to see what all they hype is about. Na shledanou for now!
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Adrienne on

What a beautiful town....really magical. Beauty at every turn, like you said. Thank you for this lovely blog and all the fantastic photos. I love how much you are smiling, Val.

Aaron on

WOW!!! The food in this blog sounds like the best!

I have always wanted to try mead!!!!!! So jeleous.

This town looked so very nice. All the rooftops and stuff... just glowing. Enjoy all that awesome food!! Damn girl.

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