Xi'an and the Terracotta Army
Trip Start
May 02, 2007
1
49
70
Trip End
Ongoing
We're afraid we don't have too much exciting to talk about in this entry. Most of our stay in Xi'an - the former capital of ancient China - was spent in the hostel, in bed. Yvonne fully caught a cold and flu, and I followed a few days after her. We did manage to make it to the must-see Terracotta Army, China's self-proclaimed 8th Wonder of the World. Thousands of life-sized dirt soldiers stand guard over Qin Shi Huang's - the first emperor of a unified China - tomb and dates back some 2000 years ago. They weren't discovered until 1974 when some farmers digging a well chanced upon them. They are still being excavated to this day.
As soon as we arrived in Xi'an, we hooked up with Caroline and Andy, a British couple we'd met way back in Ulan Bator and who we'd bumped into again in Pingyao. We took the one hour bus ride out to the Army in the early afternoon, and were a little surprised at how everything looked. We'd expected a whole lot of dirt with excavated pits with the Terracotta Army below, but the exhibit is very modern and housed in massive concrete hangars. We were harassed by people selling souvenirs on the walk in and the walk out of the exhibit
We do have one little interesting story to tell actually. On the overnight train ride from Pingyao to Xi'an (in hard sleeper - an open carriage configuration with bunk beds stacked three high), I woke - even with earplugs in - to sounds of sobbing. From my top level bunk I looked down to the bottom and saw a Chinese girl, maybe twenty years old, crying and choking on her coughs, thrashing about semi-violently in her bed. She woke the entire carriage of sixty some-odd people and everyone was peering from their bunks to watch. It took a full ten minutes for anyone Chinese to get up and see what was wrong. Another ten minutes later an attendant came. They helped her off at the next stop and that was the end of that. Yvonne later told me that before she started crying she had climbed up to Yvonne's top bunk and tugged on the jacket she was using as a secondary pillow that was snuggled under her head. Weird. Apparently not learning our lesson in Russia, we made another pact from then on that we would take soft sleeper - a four bed private compartment - the rest of the way in China.
As soon as we arrived in Xi'an, we hooked up with Caroline and Andy, a British couple we'd met way back in Ulan Bator and who we'd bumped into again in Pingyao. We took the one hour bus ride out to the Army in the early afternoon, and were a little surprised at how everything looked. We'd expected a whole lot of dirt with excavated pits with the Terracotta Army below, but the exhibit is very modern and housed in massive concrete hangars. We were harassed by people selling souvenirs on the walk in and the walk out of the exhibit
The Terracotta Army
. As usual, the place was packed with tour groups, some tourists not even really looking at the Army, just getting their picture snapped and moving on. It was a bit anti-climatic, but in all honesty we had zero expectations when we went there, hence no disappointment.We do have one little interesting story to tell actually. On the overnight train ride from Pingyao to Xi'an (in hard sleeper - an open carriage configuration with bunk beds stacked three high), I woke - even with earplugs in - to sounds of sobbing. From my top level bunk I looked down to the bottom and saw a Chinese girl, maybe twenty years old, crying and choking on her coughs, thrashing about semi-violently in her bed. She woke the entire carriage of sixty some-odd people and everyone was peering from their bunks to watch. It took a full ten minutes for anyone Chinese to get up and see what was wrong. Another ten minutes later an attendant came. They helped her off at the next stop and that was the end of that. Yvonne later told me that before she started crying she had climbed up to Yvonne's top bunk and tugged on the jacket she was using as a secondary pillow that was snuggled under her head. Weird. Apparently not learning our lesson in Russia, we made another pact from then on that we would take soft sleeper - a four bed private compartment - the rest of the way in China.

