U-turn to France

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  Sant Salvador, Spain
Sunday, June 17, 2007

Compared to our trip last year, this is a vastly different experience. Where last year we tried to cover as much ground as we could and see as much as possible, this year we are taking a much more deliberate approach and taking things slowly. We are mixing in relaxation days, during which we just sit around and read or do whatever else doesn't require much effort, with days where we city sightsee, cycle some countryside, or hike up a mountain. It's a great combination and keeps things very interesting. We are sad to say, however, that we've decided to leave Spain prematurely and skip Portugal altogether. In three weeks we've only covered a tiny corner of Spain - the Catalunya region in the northeast - and to do this country (and Portugal) any justice we figure we need at least three months or so. Unfortunately we don't have that time this year, with what we have in store for ourselves in the next few months. Southern Spain and Portugal will also get extremely hot in the coming summer months, so, in our best interests we're postponing for another year, when we'll return in the early spring (or, maybe it's just another excuse to return?)

01.Monserrat monastery

. We met a retired Canadian couple last year who said they traveled for nine months in Spain and Portugal; we were baffled how they could have spent so much time, but we're beginning to understand! We've made a U-turn and are heading towards France, with plans to be in Paris for Yvonne's 30th birthday, and where we will hopefully be able to meet up with our friends, Artemis and Andrew.

Before we leave Spain though, we've returned to the coast one more time to say goodbye to the Mediterranean properly. We found a campground in the small town of Sant Salvador, about 70 km south of Barcelona, and hit the beach in the early evening with our grill, some food, and a bottle of vino tinto. It was a very windy day but we managed to use our beach umbrella to create a shelter and even got some candles and incense lit up. We grilled a nice little dinner, and before we knew it were out of wine. One more trip to the nearby market brought us another bottle and some dessert. We sat on the sand and enjoyed the last few hours of Spanish beaches.

On the way north to France we visited Montserrat, a funky looking mountain with a "must-see" monastery (even though we're not into seeing churches, the mountain itself was worth the trip). From the road, as you near the bottom to begin the steep climb, the top looks like giant gray fingers jutting out of a massive hill. Close-up, however, the fingers started to take different shapes in our imaginations, including facial profiles, a bunny, and even a pregnant lady. After visiting the monastery, we took a funicular further up the mountain and began a two hour hike to the highest point, Sant Jeroni. We've found that it's very easy to get away from the hordes of tourists in places like this. All you have to do is do something that takes a little bit of effort

02.Peaks of Monserrat

. If they can't get there by car, train, bus, funicular or cable car, 99.9% of them won't go. Venturing off the regular tourist circuit a little bit is a great way to seek some solitude and really see what any place has to offer. Our hike back down to the monastery was pretty tiring; about half of it was stairs and our legs were already pretty exhasusted from the trek up. We had jello legs at the bottom.

From there we continued toward France, entering into the mountainous region just south of the Pyranees. The landscape changed very dramatically and we soon found ourselves surrounded by red, rocky mountains and several rivers and lakes. We made a couple stops along the way, one of them in La Pobla Segura, where we came upon some sort of festival. There was a big market that wound its way through the streets. While we were having a coffee in a small café we heard these really loud bangs. I thought it was just construction, but the thunderous claps got louder and louder, like they were moving towards us. Shortly after, out the window we saw some older men in some traditional garb, packing these oversized shotguns full of powder, and then with a pump of the handle they would fire them into the air. We went out to get a closer look, but quickly shied back inside when we discovered that we could probably go deaf being that close! After, we snaked our way through the market and saw some pretty interesting and a little unusual booths

03.Inside the monastery

. There was a fortune teller who would get someone to squeeze some clay in their hands, then with the impression left by their fingers would dole out a prediction. After, he would add some details to the impression to make a little face, like a gnome and send you away to bake it in your oven for a little keepsake. We saw a basket weaver, a shoe maker (who was busy fashioning some sandals together) and an iron worker, from whom we bought a mini horseshoe for good luck. This cost us two euro, and a few hours later, Yvonne found a two euro coin on the sidewalk in another town!

We are on our way into the Spanish Pyranees where we are planning a two-day trek, sleeping at a refuge in the mountains. This will be our first multi-day hike and should be a good litmus test to learn from, since we intend to do more in the Alps, in Corsica, and in Nepal.

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04.In the courtyard	05.Rock climber	06.Rock shapes	07.A climber/worshipper on a peak
08.Us at Sant Jeroni, the highest peak	09.Monserrat from a distance	10.Our last Spanish beach dinner *sniff*	11.Cheers!
12.A fisherman at dusk	13.The essentials	14.Stork next atop a cathedral in Lleda	15.Rock reflection
16.Nearing the Spanish Pyranees	17.Getting ready for the market	18.Shooter	19.Church in Boi
20.Cats in Boi	21.Street in Boi

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