In the last chapter of the Vagabonder saga, the V Man had a great time wandering around Bombay exploring, people watching, and architecture eyeing.
After two remarkable days in Bombay, the V Man woke, just a little past the crack of dawn, donned his backpack and set off into the early morning darkness to the train station.
The train a 3rd Tier/Air conditioned (as it is known here) was clean and comfortable. Cost for the 600Km (10hr) journey: 800 rupees (approx $18). A sleeper train, i.e. bunk bed equipped. The V Man had the 3rd and highest bunk but did not use same as it was a day trip. To V's right were Nea and Gordon from London. To V's left a retired sea captain full of GREAT stories about his excursions, and skirt chasing, around the globe. Across from the Vagabonder sat a quite pretty Polish woman and a Bombay native.
There is plenty of food available on the train. Like a ballgame, men roam up and down the corridors with assorted food and drink for sale. Hot beverages, i.e. coffee and chai (tea) are sold and poured from small silver containers. Initially, the V Man decided to fast so as to obviate stomach problems. Soon hunger caused the V Man to reconsider. The V Man observed what the Bombay woman and retired sea captain did and followed in suit. By the end of the day, the V Man had downed 4 chais, a vegetable patty with bread (breakfast); vegetable biryiani (lunch) and vegetable toast (toasted bread with potato vegetable mix inside [later afternoon snack]).
A german gent slept above us in one of the bunks. A strange dude. Never blinked. Drank coffee like a fiend. Ordered every time java juice was available. The amount of coffee powder used was never enough for him. Each time he purchased coffee the vendor would toss some coffee mix into his cup and he would immediately exlaim "More possible! More possible". The coffee vendor with only a small amount of coffee mix enclosed in a plastic bag would toss a bit more coffee dust into the German's cup. Again another chorus of "More possible! More possible". This was repeated all day. Coffee cost about 4 cents.
The train had two bathrooms. A western bathroom and an Indian bathroom. Identified as such on their respective doors. Tried both.
An enjoyable ride. Train never broke down. (Been advised that this is a regular occurence.)
From the train station, the V Man hopped into a tuk tuk like taxi (a motorized rickshaw). The ride to Panaji, the regional capital, some 12 kilometers away was crazy. The driver continued to pass whatever was before him. Hairpin turns did not effect this process.
Upon arrival the V Man checked out two guesthouses. One was packed save a room the size of an airplane hanger which was to big for the V Man. Was suited for 4 people. Plus the owner was a bit grouchy. The V Man digs smiles. So on to the next guesthouse. 200 rupees but quite unkempt. Finally, the V Man went to Hotel Mayfair. 450 rupees/night but worth it. Clean modern hotel, hot shower, large ceiling fan, and cable tv.
Most backpackers overlook Panaji and head straight for Goa's beaches. Famous for all night parties/raves.
Panaji is a Portugese flavored city, population 98,915. Has been the capital of Goa since 1843.
While the Portugese departed from Panaji sometime ago, the flavor and architecture remain. Visited the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. A beautiful white, with blue stripes, church perched on a hill in the town center. Lovely. The V Man sat in on morning services and then moved on to the old Portugese neighborhood for some strolling and viewing. Magnificent colors!!!!!! Eyed the Chapel of St. Sebastian. Smaller in size than Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. But pleasurable to the eye nonetheless.
The V Man has inhaled plenty of Panaji grub. Mornings, and afternoons, have been spent at Cafe Aram. A GREAT cafe. Nescafe made with steaming hot milk. The Goan Samosas are delicious (a potato-vegetable filled pastry-[much like a bourekas for those familiar with Israeli cuisine]). Also have had nescafe and samosas at Cafe Real. Tummy satisfying!.
In Panaji the V Man has dined with the locals. Choosing places packed with patrons. Have eaten at Satkar Restaurant 3 times. Very good. A huge meal for 50 cents. Have eaten nearly the same meal on 88th and lst for about $16.
Ate lunch near the market. Same was filled with local workers covered in paint and dirt. The V Man sat in a corner gobbling his food. Took a picture of the meal which the locals must have thought was strange. (Will upload pictures sometime soon. Not as easy as Thailand).
Yesterday, The V Man visted Old Goa. They say that Old Goa in her heyday was comparable to Lisbon. Today nothing remains save a handful of churches and some ruins. Woke very early and walked through Panaji as the residents all snoozed in their respective beds. Downed a quick coffee and samosas and then headed off to the bus station and boarded the local to Old Goa. Price 5 cents. Only westerner aboard!!
Old Goa was cool. 400 year old churches scattered within. First visited Basilica of Bom Jesus. A Roman Catholic church. The same, with a rusty colored brick exterior, houses the remains of St. Francis Xavier. The Saint is known for the many pilgrimages he made worldwide seeking to turn non-christians on to Jesus. But he is also famous for his non-decaying body. After he passed, quicklime was poured into his coffin so as to facilitate disposal of his body. Well, to make a long story short, his body, despite same, did not decay. A physician was called in and advised that indeed his body was still intact. This St. is buried within a glass coffin within a marble tomb. Every ten years the glass coffin is extracted for public viewing. It appears that it was just pulled out in December 2003. Darn!!!!!!!
Next the V Man hiked over to the remains of the Church of St. Augustine. Ruins and a large tower mark the spot where worshippers once prayed.
Visited Se Cathedral. Construction of this beautiful Portugese-Gothic church began in the late 16th century. The same was completed in 1652. Eye pleasing!
As far as interiors go, the Church of St. Francis of Assisi was tops.
The Church of St. Cajetan, modeled after St. Peters in Rome, was visited. But due to present construction was not entered or viewed for long.
After a bit more site-seeing the V Man flagged a local bus, hopped on, and headed back to Panaji.
Following an afternoon siesta, the V Man headed to Hotel Venite located within the old Portugese district. Has lovely balconies where diners can chew their meal while enjoying the local firewater, i.e. FENI. Feni is to Panaji, as Soju is to Korea, as Oozo is to Greece, as Arak is to Israel, as moonshine is to the US. You could run a car on this stuff!!!!! Save mixing or a chaser this drink, made from cashew nuts and also from coconut, is tough to down. The V Man swallowed same with lemon lime soda. Of course, for research sake, both the cashew nut and coconut kinds were imbibed. Soon after the V Man arrived a very friendly group of Koreans appeared and asked if they could join the Vagabonder's table. Excellent! Had lots of fun chatting and joking with them.
Today, February 7, 2004 the V Man will hop on a minibus and head to Palolem. Said to be Goa's greatest beach (for those not interested in all night partying). Will spend 3 moons there and then continue the slow trek around the subcontinent.
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