Divided City

Trip Start Aug 23, 1996
1
384
451
Trip End Ongoing


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Flag of Cyprus  ,
Thursday, March 20, 2008

It was around 80 K's to get to the spilt town of Nicosia. There were signs everywhere, well that was until the motorway ranout. I knew I was in the outskirts, I just had to find the city centre. Once again, my built in GPS brought me to the walls, actually to the Pathos Gate, which is where I wanted to dump the car. Once done, off I went, to cross a border that really isn't there, into a country that isn't a country.
 
Northern Nicosia
 
Border famalities were easy. The Cypriots didn't care, whilst the Northies stamped a piece of paper. And in I went. I had been given a walking tour so I followed it. This part of Nicosia felt funny, and it wasn't danger or anything, it felt like I was in Sarajevo or the shithole that is Skopje, but on a larger scale. It was rundown in some places, but there was so much life. I came across a church, but was unable to go in as the fence was covered in barbed wire. Because of this, it got me thinking, Islam doesn't really promote itself as a friendly religion, either convert or be closed !!! Around the corner was even more evidence of this. The Cathedral in the centre had been converted into a Mosque when the Ottomans had invaded. In some respect, I feel there had been an improvement, instead of hard stones, I was now walking on soft lush carpet. Actually, from the outside, if you took away the minaret, it would actually pass as a church. Next up was the markets, and I noticed a sign for Pide. I have a love for this shit, but when I asked how they make it, I walked out disappointed. Are these people Turkish or Cypriot?. I did manage to find the wall a few times, and I felt sad looking at the decrepit old buildings stuck in no mans land, who owned these and what they had given up. Not long after, well after a Turkish coffee hit, I walked from the country that doesn't exist and into Cyprus
 
Cypriot Nicosia
 
The walls here are amazing. First you have barbed wire, and then, as this is a Venetian town, you have walls that are similar to Kotor's or any Venetian city in Croatia, which is to be expected as it is a Venetian city !!!
 
I found a taverna straight away and ordered some lunch. Once my food arrived, a local came and joined me, spoke Cypriot to me, and as it's all Greek to me, I ignored him, he then asked.
 
Cypriot Guy - You speak English
Me - Yes
Cypriot Guy - You are eating the chicken
Me - Yes
Cypriot Guy - You are not eating the pig
Me - No
Cypriot Guy - Are you a Muslim
Me - No
Cypriot Guy - Eat the pig to show me
Me - Ok
!!!!!
 
After that, we became best friends !!!
 
I moved on, and found the wall again, well actually the opposite side to where I had been. The guards looked bored and were stuggling to stay awake !!! As I moved on, I found some Mosques that were locked up, was this in retaliation for what had happened on the otherside to the churches? In another church, I spoke to a girl and she told me that she had Islamic friends, but no Greek Cypriot would ever marry a Muslim !!! It was beginning to sound like the hardcore Cathoes and Protties of Northern Ireland, so I ran away until I found another Mosque that was open, and just like the Northern one, this too had been converted from a church. I had a look in, and then outside, I saw a guy, gave him the Asalum wallicum. He replied and asked if I was a Muslim, I said no, and then told him that he was from Pakistan. He said yes, so we spoke about cricket (as you do) and also about him being an illegal immigrant !!!
 
And then it was time to move on and get amongst the traffic.
 
Choirokoitia
 
As I drove, I noticed a sign, so I turned off and and visited the houses of Choirokoitia. It's a Neolithic site and is meant to be around 9000 years old. Realistically, it looked likew a load of od wellish kind of things on the hillside. Was it worth €1.71, well I would have died wondering, so I'm kind of glad I came.
 
And Finally
 
And that was the end of day 2 on the island of Cyprus. It had been a good day but should I have gone to Northern Cyprus, a place where the Turks have some of the worst history in human rights? Well I have been to Myanmar/Burma, and I want to go to China, so fuck it I say, I go where my feet will take me

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001 Chuch, Nicosia 001 Chuch, Nicosia 002 Sign, Nicosia 002 Sign, Nicosia 003 Sign, Nicosia 003 Sign, Nicosia 004 Wall and Wire, Nicosia 004 Wall and Wire, Nicosia
005 Wall and Wire, Nicosia 005 Wall and Wire, Nicosia 006 UN Tower, Nicosia 006 UN Tower, Nicosia 007 Monument, Nicosia 007 Monument, Nicosia 008 Gatehouse, Nicosia 008 Gatehouse, Nicosia
009 Statue, Nicosia 009 Statue, Nicosia 010 Flag, Nicosia 010 Flag, Nicosia 011 Church, Nicosia 011 Church, Nicosia 012 Two Flags, Nicosia 012 Two Flags, Nicosia
013 Minaret, Nicosia 013 Minaret, Nicosia 014 Old Church, Nicosia 014 Old Church, Nicosia 015 Ablution Pit, Nicosia 015 Ablution Pit, Nicosia 016 Hammam, Nicosia 016 Hammam, Nicosia
017 Mosque, Nicosia 017 Mosque, Nicosia 018 Two Kids, Nicosia 018 Two Kids, Nicosia 019 Koranic Script, Nicosia 019 Koranic Script, Nicosia 020 Mihrab, Nicosia 020 Mihrab, Nicosia
021 Mihrab, Nicosia 021 Mihrab, Nicosia 022 Inside the Mosque, Nicosia 022 Inside the Mosque, Nicosia 023 Boy Praying, Nicosia 023 Boy Praying, Nicosia 024 Mihrab, Nicosia 024 Mihrab, Nicosia
025 Boy Playing, Nicosia 025 Boy Playing, Nicosia 026 Mosque, Nicosia 026 Mosque, Nicosia 027 Two Minarets, Nicosia 027 Two Minarets, Nicosia 028 Mosque, Nicosia 028 Mosque, Nicosia
029 Border at Ledra St, Nicosia 029 Border at Ledra St, Nicosia 030 Old Ice Cream Van, Nicosia 030 Old Ice Cream Van, Nicosia 031 Building, Nicosia 031 Building, Nicosia 032 Mural, Nicosia 032 Mural, Nicosia
033 Towards the Border, Nicosia 033 Towards the Border, Nicosia 034 Sign, Nicosia 034 Sign, Nicosia 035 Sign, Nicosia 035 Sign, Nicosia 036 Old Building, Nicosia 036 Old Building, Nicosia
037 Old Church, Nicosia 037 Old Church, Nicosia 038 Missing, Nicosia 038 Missing, Nicosia 039 Mosque, Nicosia 039 Mosque, Nicosia 040 UN Tower, Nicosia 040 UN Tower, Nicosia
041 Wall, Nicosia 041 Wall, Nicosia 042 Old Building, Nicosia 042 Old Building, Nicosia 043 Ablution Pit, Nicosia 043 Ablution Pit, Nicosia 044 Stop Sign, Nicosia 044 Stop Sign, Nicosia
045 Caravanserai, Nicosia 045 Caravanserai, Nicosia 046 Caravanserai, Nicosia 046 Caravanserai, Nicosia 047 Old Building, Nicosia 047 Old Building, Nicosia 048 Lunch, Nicosia 048 Lunch, Nicosia
049 Barricade, Nicosia 049 Barricade, Nicosia 050 Sign, Nicosia 050 Sign, Nicosia 051 Old Building, Nicosia 051 Old Building, Nicosia 052 Sign, Nicosia 052 Sign, Nicosia
053 Border at Ledra St, Nicosia 053 Border at Ledra St, Nicosia 054 Bored Guards, Nicosia 054 Bored Guards, Nicosia 055 Sign, Nicosia 055 Sign, Nicosia 056 No Man's Land, Nicosia 056 No Man's Land, Nicosia
057 Sandbags, Nicosia 057 Sandbags, Nicosia 058 Old Building, Nicosia 058 Old Building, Nicosia 059 Church, Nicosia 059 Church, Nicosia 060 Windmill, Nicosia 060 Windmill, Nicosia
061 Old Mosque, Nicosia 061 Old Mosque, Nicosia 062 Church, Nicosia 062 Church, Nicosia 063 Mural, Nicosia 063 Mural, Nicosia 064 Mihrab, Nicosia 064 Mihrab, Nicosia
065 Carpet, Nicosia 065 Carpet, Nicosia 066 Mosque, Nicosia 066 Mosque, Nicosia 067 Statue, Nicosia 067 Statue, Nicosia 068 Church, Nicosia 068 Church, Nicosia
069 Old Mosque, Nicosia 069 Old Mosque, Nicosia 070 Che, Nicosia 070 Che, Nicosia 071 Choirokoitia 071 Choirokoitia 072 Choirokoitia 072 Choirokoitia
073 Choirokoitia 073 Choirokoitia 074 Choirokoitia 074 Choirokoitia 075 Choirokoitia 075 Choirokoitia 076 Choirokoitia 076 Choirokoitia
077 Choirokoitia 077 Choirokoitia 078 Choirokoitia 078 Choirokoitia 079 Choirokoitia 079 Choirokoitia 080 Choirokoitia 080 Choirokoitia
081 Choirokoitia 081 Choirokoitia 082 Choirokoitia 082 Choirokoitia
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Comments

starlagurl
starlagurl on Mar 25, 2008 at 05:37PM

Bahhhhahaha!
That exchange between you and the Cypriot is priceless...

Louise Brown
TravelPod Community Manager

thistlemoon
thistlemoon on Mar 25, 2008 at 07:36PM

wow!
Those are some stunning mosques. So beautiful inside.

I agree, the exchange about chicken and pork was hilarious! he meant business!

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