The Surfing Lifestyle

Trip Start Dec 09, 2005
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5
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Trip End Jan 14, 2006


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Wednesday, December 14, 2005

The 6:00 AM wake-up call in Anna Bay came much too early for a group that have never surfed before - I discovered muscles that I never knew I had. The surf dudes explained that morning swells were always better than afternoon, hence the early start. After some further instruction we paddled out to the deep water and spent the next 2.5 hours in the greenwater where the waves are much larger. It is here that I managed to catch my first wave and surf it all the way into the beach. Even though I was exhausted, I kept going back out for another adrenaline rush. It is a good thing that a large percentage of surfing life is spent just sitting on your board, waiting for a wave - it gives you a small opportunity to recuperate. After I could no longer move my arms, the group went back to the beach for some volleyball and sun worship. On our walk back to the camp for lunch, I spotted two koalas just sitting in a tree chillaxin'.
After lunch, we got the bad news that one of our group (a Brit who was recently in Thailand) had to go to the hospital with some digestive ailments (I hypothesized that it was bird flu) and would not continue on with us. We then packed up and headed fro Crescent Head - the hometown of our driver Wispy.
The Mojosurf Surf Shack just outside of Crescent Head is the place that you could stay in and convince yourself to never leave. A purpose-built, two-level bunkhouse on an expanse of forest just minutes from the beach, I wish we could have stayed here longer. We spent the afternoon/early evening surfing and then came back for an Aussie BBQ - more meat than I have ever seen in my life! After supper we walked across the road to a little party bungalow that the surf dudes had built specifically for beach parties.
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