My last few days at Green Turtle

Trip Start Sep 05, 2008
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Trip End Jan 01, 2009


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Thursday, November 27, 2008

I knew I would regret writing about how my skin was so African now in that last entry. That very day I had put on sunscreen and sat in the shade all day, never once in the sun, and still burned. We figured it was because of these antibiotics I took the day before when I was convinced I had a parasite in my stomach. Anyway it wasn't a bad burn but my first one here in over three weeks and included raccoon eyes from my shades. Awesome.

However after a bad day of burning in the shade I did have a good night. On the night hike with Moses we spotted an Olive Ridley coming out of the sea. We walked past her with our large group of tourists a little further down the beach and waited for her to come up. She dug her nest and then decided it wasn't good enough (there was a coconut tree root going through it) and dug another. She finally laid her nest and then covered it up and went back out to sea. We got to watch the entire process from start to finish and it was pretty amazing to watch.

Also more good news is that Katherine is healthy again and happy to be back in action. This is my last week so I have been loading up on chocolate bananas every night for dessert and sitting at the bar with Ansah a lot who always insists on making me delicious cocktails. It is hard to say no to a guy like that.

We went to Takoradi twice this week to do some web-based research and had Wildlife Club on Wednesday. Today we finally did one of the fabulous hikes they offer with Victor. It was a beautiful hike there and totally worth all the sweating. Olive Ridley digging her nest
Olive Ridley digging her nest
We took lots of breaks usually within sight of a beach. The hike took about five hours there and back. The way back is down a road but the way there you get to walk down lots of beautiful beaches. When we were leaving one beach to go back into the forest we walked across a fallen log. Victor was leading the pack and he turned back and said "Watch out, there are some shits here". We had a good giggle about that but it was true, people were using the log as a toilet for their logs. Nice.

On Sunday Emmanuel came by to clear the path to our hut because he is hot like that. Later I went to our room and saw him with his shirt off and nearly died. Instead I ran to get Katherine to share the joy. We have suspected for some time that his body is gorgeous and we were delighted to have the visual confirmation. Also Katherine was still sick and I knew it would help lift her spirits to see him like that.

After he was done I asked if I could meet his puppy. He had told me earlier he bought a four week old dog but it was still with its mom and he would get it in four more weeks. So he said of course and took me to the village and introduced me to his entire family. I think "puppy" must have a different meaning in Ghanaian English. Nonetheless it was a really nice day meeting his family. His mom was farming so I didn't see her but met grandparents, his father, cousins, and siblings. We also ran into Victor, his uncle. I told Victor I was sad to be leaving so soon and he said if he could change my flight so I would stay longer he would. Finding her way back to sea
Finding her way back to sea
We then left the village and Emmanuel showed me the section of beach he wants me to have and it looks pretty freaking awesome to me. Sold!

Today the sand flies finally got me. I had been doing so well with avoiding bites from mosquitoes and other insects but today I woke up with my legs absolutely covered and I'm sad to say my bum too. I am really looking forward to them disappearing!

Since I only have two days left there are some things I need to remember:
- The Ghanaian handshake starts off like a normal handshake but at the end you snap your fingers with theirs. I got pretty good at it in Cape Coast but actually already was onto it as Sea Bass and I used to do that all the time at work. I had no idea it would come in handy later.
- Men and women are totally treated equally by one another here but men are still quite chivalrous. I really like it. They always want to be carrying your things for you and offering to get stuff you are perfectly capable of getting.
- Bananas vs. plantains - I can't tell the difference until it's too late.
- Standing there having a conversation with a Ghanaian and have them say to you "I am coming". At first this one really threw me off. I didn't know where they were coming as they were already there. But it is actually a half sentence, meaning "I am coming right back." Because as soon as they say it they dash off and leave you standing there, confused.
- Ghanaian time is not the same as time everywhere else. Ansah told me that white people expect you to show up at the time you say which is a completely ridiculous concept to Ghanaians. They come when they are ready.
- Fan ice. I may have to start a European chain. It is the most delicious ice cream ever and it comes in a plastic bag (sort of). Mmmmm Fan Ice I will miss you.
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