Bonus Night Edition (!)
Trip Start
Dec 27, 2008
1
8
31
Trip End
Feb 08, 2009
Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India
Monday, January 5, 2009
Some great things have happened and I though it deserved an extra evening blog edition.
A few things of note:
- I'm not sure what happened today, but suddenly I just feel really great!! Its like I'm on this total buzz, and now frankly just really don't care about e-coli, cow poop, annoying heckling men, and bargaining mishaps. I feel like life is just totally sweet! Its like I've just suddenly acclimatized and feel deeply at peace. I got the gist of the place, and I'm not feeling really fearful at all about something happening to my bags and things (though I am still locking the zippers together). Varanasi definitely induces you into a trance-like state and I can see how it can be so religiously and culturally intoxicating.
- One thing also that I've only now come to appreciate is that the walk along the Ganges is like the Champs-Elysees - not only am I being oogled, but all the other tourists are as well! And they're all oogling the Indians! Its just one big collective, (largely) consentual oogle!! With that in mind, I've gotten a little less paranoid about my camera and have it out more (hence my increase number of pictures).
- I've also discovered that my camera is a lovely tool for objectified men right back. Its like, OH you want to look at ME? Well, fuck you man, I'm taking a photo of YOU! Its been helpful too for rather annoying kids who have had one too many tourists give them something. God knows how many asked me for an orange from the side of my pack until I put them fully away inside.
- I met my German doppleganger today, which was quite funny - particularly as people always ask me if I'm German when I travel. I'm so UBER practical! ;) He was wearing the exact same long sleeve tan button-down shirt, a black t-shirt, tan convertible pants, and hiking boots. I tried to take a picture, but it was too dark to pull it off...
- The food mix here is really interesting. There's of course ton of Chinese food, as its right over the border. But what's also a hoot, is there are several "German Bakeries" around. These have been terrific to visit as they offer tasty western style baked goods, and a clean western style environment. Who knew the Germans had such a presence in India and were so known for their baked goods!?! ;)
Finally, two significant developments - I just made contact with Catherine who's (follow me on this one) Hanne's husband, Craig's, Mother's friend. She stays in Varanasi for several months out of the year to volunteer at a school nearby and also takes some terrific photos (Craig's mother, Jeanne, offered to introduce us as I complimented one of Catherine's photos hanging in Hanne's house).
Check out Catherine's site! Here photos are great! http://www.catherinejansen.com
Finally, if there's anything I've learned from my travels its an appreciation that in life, things are more than just coincidence. As they say in Buddhism, "You're exactly where you need to be. That's why you're there."
Well, today was one of those moments...
I just happened to decide today to go to one of the German Bakeries at one of the ghats at the far end of the river. While I was there I bought some scarves at the shop upstairs, and happened to decide to visit another shop which was listed nearby in Lonely Planet.
The shop is a fair wage collective (check it out at www.openhandonline.com) and had some nice stuff for purchase. While I was paying, I happened to overhead a woman behind me, who at the moment happened to also be at a point where she was needing to pay, who happened to be speaking in English (not that common around here), who mentioned that the Dalai Lama will be speaking from January 8th-14th at Sarnath (6 miles outside of Varanasi, and where the Buddha came to preach his message of the middle way to nirvana after he achieved enlightenment at Bodhgaya). Sarnath is one of the four most important sites in Buddhism.
Furthermore, which was also totally amazing, I struck up a conversation with this woman and she said that she heard from a Nun that you need an FM radio or an FM configuration on your cell phone (who knew cell phones could do that?!) to hear the translation of the Dalai Lama from Tibetan.
I'm SO stoked, and I'm SO there.
It all happens for a reason...
Let the path (or as I like to say, the river) unfold before you.
I included a bunch of photos from my walking around today. There's so much to take in, its one of those moments when a picture says a thousand words...
Finally, did you hear that the Dalai Lama is now semi retired? I included an article about it below.
Also, did you know he had a MySpace page?! I found that REALLY funny. Such a delightful mix of the traditional and the new. My favorite is how he has his "interests" listed... ;)
Check out: http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendID=136971865
Also:
Dalai Lama announces semi-retirement
Last Updated: December 17, 2008 17:51 IST
After months of speculation over his retirement, Tibetan spiritual leader the Dalai Lama [Images] on Wednesday declared that the future course of the movement that he spearheaded for nearly five decades will now be decided by 'Prime Minister of government-in-exile' Samdhong Rinpoche.
"I have grown old and already taken semi-retirement. It is better if I retire completely and get out of the way of the Tibetan movement," the 73-year-old Nobel laureate, who recently underwent surgery, told reporters at Dharamshala [Images] after an interaction with Himachal Pradesh [Images] legislators.
"The future course of the Tibetan movement will be decided by the elected government under Prime Minister Samdhong Rinpoche," the Tibetan temporal head said.
The Dalai Lama's statement came just three weeks after a key conclave of exiled Tibetans virtually put on notice the Dalai's "'Middle Path' approach on dialogue with China. They declared that they will be forced to demand full independence if no concrete results emerged.
The Dalai Lama said, "Henceforth, your questions about the future course of Tibetan movement and talks with China would be answered by the (Tibetan) Prime Minister in exile".
Rinpoche was sharing the dais with the Dalai Lama along with Himachal Pradesh Chief Minister Prem Kumar Dhumal and Speaker Tulsi Ram.
The Dalai Lama said his complete retirement would strengthen democracy in Tibet [Images].
"How long shall I continue to lead the Tibetan movement?" he asked and referred to democratic tradition in India where parties come to power through elections.
The Dalai Lama had visited 'Tapovan', the new assembly building of Himachal Pradesh, on invitation of the Speaker.
On the Mumbai terror attacks [Images], the Dalai Lama said he shared the pain of the Indian people over such incidents which 'come in the way of world peace'.
"Only people who have lost mental balance can indulge in such terrorist acts," he said.
Describing India as 'role model for non-violence and religious tolerance', the Tibetan spiritual leader said the country could guide the world in establishment of peace.
"Indian democracy is age old and in modern times too, it presents a good example for others," he said.
"Different religions like Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, Buddhism and Zoroastrianism co-exist in India in a healthy environment.... India shall guide the world how to run wonderful democracy," he added.
The spiritual leader, who fled to India in 1959 after a failed uprising against Chinese rule in Tibet, said he felt like a citizen of Himachal Pradesh. He has been staying at Mcleodganj, 15 km from Dharamshala, in Kangra district of the state.
"I have stayed here for a long time. The love and respect given by the people here makes me feel that I am a citizen of Himachal Pradesh," he said.
Comments
rivers
The symbolism of the Ganges is beautiful. I miss not being near rivers in San Francisco. Unfortunately, the water drainage is now all underground in pipes. Walking down the street looks really exciting. The oodle-fest at the side of the ganges sounds fun too. Frankly, I'm not sure how people can drink from the Ganges and not get sick every time. Once you catch something once, I guess your get immunity to it. So those people are probably immune to every bug floating around in the ganges.
what is that paranoia jumper?
I am so confused about the paranoia jumper. I want it but I am afraid of what people will think about me when I wear it.
not to cont' the poo conversation, but . . .
From my 3rd world experiences - I don't think people become immune - they just accept a lesser degree of well being. In Tlacotalpan, Veracruz in the late 80's people died of liver cirosis (sp), not from drinking alcohol, but from amoebic dysentery caused by poo! But I am glad, Amanda, that you are now 'in the zone' and feeling the collective consciousness in Varanasi.
Re: what is that paranoia jumper?
That store where I took the photos is actually very very posh. It seems they have a line of clothing they sell called 'Paranoia'
I thought it was pretty funny, as for a while, that was what I was going through around e-coli. Maybe Paranoia could have a tourist sub-line called E-coli Paranoia?! ;)
Re: not to cont' the poo conversation, but . . .
Ruthie, I love the pic!
That's a great point. Obviously, this is all coming through my lens as a privileged white western Ju-Bu woman. I have to keep my 'judgment' in check.
Though medically speaking, its amazing how their body doesn't get sick. Some say, that is part of the miracle of the Ganges...