Cold and dignified
Trip Start Aug 20, 2009
14Trip End Ongoing
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Arrived in Zagreb at 6.30am, dark and cold, but found the hostel due to very good directions and was fed hot pancakes and good coffee for brekky which fortified me for a very cold exploration in a sleety city. I started with the Mimara Museum, a remarkably broad collection, especially considering it was one, obviously very rich, person's life work collecting it and in quite an outstanding building
It is really easy to get around Zagreb by tram and no one pays for them, I couldn't even see anywhere to buy tickets! So I found my way out to the MSU (Museum of Contemporary Art) a fair way out of 'town' in a particularly ugly part of the city, surrounded by a couple of huge shopping centers and a lot of apartment blocks, the tram ride is a good 20mins from the center. The building itself was about as ugly as its surroundings, but I have never been a fan of cantilever architecture (my apologies to Frank Lloyd Wright) especially on a large scale, like this one. But the space inside this was well suited to a contemporary gallery, very well curated as each exhibition flowed really smoothly from one to the other on several different levels. The art was confronting, sometimes shocking and often very overtly sexual, as well as occasionally humorous. The giant cork screw slide looked like fun too.
The trip out to Plitvitska (I was told to be careful how I said that as it was very similar to the Croatian word for vagina...hhmmm that was almost enough to scare me out of asking for a bus ticket!) was in a word, white, and the snow got progressively heavier as we got closer. Both the other two crazy people, who got off the same bus (a Korean woman and a Japanese guy) and I had been assured that the park would be open, not right. We got dropped at entrance 1 where EVERYTHING was closed and there was about a meter of snow. The Japanese guy just seemed to disappear into thin air, the Korean woman had booked into a hotel in another village and started slipping and sliding towards Split, wheelie bag in tow