Where Hyderabad Happens

Trip Start Sep 08, 2010
Trip End Ongoing

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Flag of India  , Andhra Pradesh,
Sunday, January 23, 2011

We shun the museums, the palaces, the mosques, the royal tombs in favour of walking the city; crossing the bridges; shopping the sandal bazaars, the sari shops; coming across a brass band wedged in an alleyway; a street of caged birds - parakeets and crows, quail and baby chicks dyed fluorescent colours; for where the auto-rickshaw drivers go to get new accelerator cables and spit paan whilst they wait for replacement, second-hand brakes to be fitted; where the rich kids go by the waterfront of the sagar to eat overpriced Western fast food and ice cream; where the lovers go a-courting amongst the innocent amusements of a pleasure gardens; where the homeless defecate in front of the crumbling splendour of the general hospital - de-sanctifying this great temple to public health; where the lawyers carry off their clients on the back of their motorbikes, away from the court house and the paid-off beak; where the middle class of Cyderabad sleep during the day in their air-conditioned apartments, their watches set to ESB so they may rise and go to their call centre and software development jobs in time with workers in New York and Washington; where the calls to prayer ring out through over-stretched amplifiers and burka-ed wives sit side-saddle on the back of 50cc motorcycles; where pot-bellied policemen turn bribes into biryanis; where white-robed Muhammadans cover their noses and mouths from the tuk-tuk fumes; where books are bought and sold; where children sleep; where shoes are polished and broken sandals fixed; where Hyderabad happens - on the streets.

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