Monks, Momos and more...
Trip Start
May 31, 2007
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97
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Trip End
May 20, 2008
Gangtok,
India
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Gangtok is the capital of the former kingdom of Sikkim (an Indian state since the mid-1970's). There's quite a mix of Nepalese, Tibetan, Indian and ethnic tribe cultures here. The capital is on a west facing ridge that overlooks the Ranipul River and valley. When the weather is clear (unfortunately not now) you can see the spectacular and snow-capped Khangchendzonga mountain range.
I am in an Internet cafe right now next to two monks from the Rumtek Monastery. They are here for Internet and shopping. Even the future enlightened need to take care of business I suppose. Rumtek is the official seat of the Gyalwa Karmapa, the head of the Kagyu order of Tibetan Buddhism. The Indian government has forbidden the 17th Karmapa (currently residing with the Dalai Lama in Dharmasala after fleeing from Tibet) from taking up his seat in Rumtek due to sensitive issues with China. The Karmapa is the most important figure in Tibetan Buddhism after the Dalai Lama. Wandering around this monastery felt similar to Tibet with the military guards around in contrast to the other monasteries we have seen where Buddhism is openly and freely studied and practiced.
The group had a quick tea after seeing the monastery and said our final goodbyes or 'see ya laters' before we parted ways. I hung out waiting for a share taxi back to Gangtok and ended up hitching a ride with two tourists from Quebec and their driver. Along the way we stopped at the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology which is about 2 kilometers outside of town. Doesn't seem like much but with the entire city on a steep set of hills/mountains...a vehicle was in order and I was planning to go there anyway... The Institute was established in 1958 and built in the traditional Tibetan style, and is set in a lush forest with prayer flags blowing in the breeze...or gales depending on the time of day. The only one of its kind in the world, the Institute promotes research into Mahayana Buddhism and Tibetan culture and language. There's an extensive library containing one of the world's largest collection of rare Buddhist books and manuscripts and has a hue collection of statuettes and embroidered silk thangkas. Walked up a big hill (what a surprise) and walked around a huge stupa running my hands along each of the many prayer wheels at the perimeter saying my many many thanks...
