Touristy Giza and Divine Islamic Cairo,
Egypt
Wednesday, June 27, 2007
Yesterday saw the Giza Pyramids and then went south to Saqquara to see the step pyramid and museum. The latter quite impressive but the Giza Pyramids and Sphinx, so overrun with tourists and touts it was difficult to appreciate them as I had hoped. Still, there were a few moments when I thought to myself "you are at the great pyramids of Egypt" and then was able to transcend the immediate chaos around me. Usually you see images of the pyramids situated in an empty vast desert. The large Sphinx peering out. The reality is that the Giza neighborhood of Cairo has crept right up to the base of these great monuments. Stables for donkeys, camels and horses line each block. We started out on our horses in the dark moving slowly though the litter lined streets, some paved and some dirt. Many cats scavenging along the side of the road as well as people catching their last moments of sleep on their mats before the day began. We ambled past a cemetary with tombs above ground before emerging beyond an imposing concrete and metal fence erected to separate the vast desert from the residential neighborhood. Slowly we made it out onto the sand dunes, outside of the 'official' pyramid area which didn't open until later. The sky was hazy and we weren't able to see the sunrise or really much of the three pyramids from our view. However, the air was humid, cool and breezy...lovely. I tagged along on this adventure with a few of my hostel-mates, Willem and Wendy who work and live in Africa on holiday in Egypt. After seeing the limited view we made our way back to the stable and walked to buy many entry tickets (expensive) into the different areas of the pyramids. Bumped my head quite hard at the entrance to the interior of Cheops the largest of the three and subsequently decided to stay outside instead while Willem and Wendy checked it out. So many tourists while I was waiting kept filing in from all over the world. Wildly dressed Japanese youth, scantily dressed Europeans (didn't they get the 'islamic' dress memo?) and many others...
Spent a bit of time in an A/C museum tucked next to the pyramids where one of the oldest wooden boats was discovered and rebuilt on display and then back to a cafe with a wonderful view of what we had just walked through for drinks and a rest. Next, we headed out to Saqqara for a tourist lunch i.e. expensive with about 5 waiters to 1 tourist all waiting for 'bakeesh' or tips! Everyone...and I mean everyone in the touristy areas is looking for their tip. I was beginning to get rather annoyed. It is quite a change from Iran. The step pyramid was great and the museum with some related artifacts very well done. Afterwards, we headed back to the hotel for a much needed rest.
This morning another hostelmate and I went early to Islamic Cairo and wondered the semi-deserted streets for hours. People were so friendly and welcoming to us...some bakeesh but much less than the day before. A caretaker in a stunning historic islamic school unlocked the door to the minaret and allowed us to walk all the way up for amazing views of the city. We were the only ones there and were really able to appreciate it. We started on a bit of an organized walk via Lonely Planet which turned rather spontaneously into just random wanderings down alleys, roads, into residential neighborhoods and other hidden gems. So many cats, streets, alleys unpaved, trash, chaos, store keepers setting up their wares, stunning and breathtaking and sometimes rather decayed monuments all over. Glimpses of minarets visible from narrow alleyways, the aroma of mint and tea and spices wafting through the air...divine.
