The sights of Bali

Trip Start Aug 21, 2006
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Trip End Dec 18, 2006


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Sunday, October 29, 2006

Got up early on the 28th and met my Bali driver and guide Nyoman (Nyoman Adnyana, nadnyana@yahoo.com +62 8123618136 tel) for our first full day of sightseeing. I mention his contact information because it has become increasingly clear how much the Balinese economy depends on a consistent stream of tourists. Without it, many families would be financially devastated. I have decided to put a plug in for all of the places that I have liked so that you can check them out if you decide to come traveling in these parts of the world. The contacts that I have been given by friends and family have enriched my trip so much by allowing me to get to know some locals and also giving me access to areas that I would not have been able to find during my short time here.

Our first stop was a large wood carving cooperative. Then we went to the Batuan Temple (Hindu) and to an amazing painting cooperative where I purchased some traditional Balinese painting and some more modern style paintings as well. (Dewa Putu Toris, Studio of Artist Painting dewapututoris@telkom.net)

Next we went to the elephant caves and temple complex, then to Kintomani the volcano where we had lunch. After lunch we went to a large Hindu temple complex called Besakih and then we drove by the water temple and took a picture (running out of time!) then out to a coffee plantation where they had not only coffee but cocoa and teas and spices. After enjoying some of their different drinks, we headed off to the rice paddies and the countryside.

In Besakih, they are very INSISTENT that you take a local guide to the temple complex. Nyoman and I practiced what I would say to them so that we could just go up there without the extra guide: "I had already been to the temple, didn't need a guide, just walking with my friend etc." After saying this string of excuses multiple times to two or three different 'local' guides, and listening to them say that today was special because there was a 'ceremony' going on (it happens everyday!) they finally let us walk up to the temple complex and enjoy the views. I couldn't walk into the temple because of the ceremony going on but I just stood right outside and watched the proceedings.

We drove through so many villages it was hard to tell when one stopped and the next one started. There are 'family' Hindu temples all over the place and then there are village temples as well for village worshipping a couple of times a year. People place flowers, incense and other offerings multiple times a day and pray also multiple times a day. It is so integrated into the culture and way of life. The temples are also an integral part of the architectural design of the villages. It is quite beautiful.

At the rice paddies, the local vendors spotted me instantly and ran over to shove things in my face to buy. I kid you not, it was remarkable how earnest and insistent they were. I bought one small box from a lady and then many more people showed up trying to sell their stuff. I had to get quite sharp with them finally and push them out of the way because I was completely overwhelmed. A common trick of some street vendors is to show you a high quality statue and then when you show interest, switch it with a lower quality one for you to actually buy...bait and switch. It's hard to get upset because people are just doing what they can do to survive. You just have to be savvy and take notice of what is going on.

Found a good internet cafe last night after checking out three totally slow ones. It's more expensive but worth it! I met three women there who are teaching in Indonesia right now. They were on holiday in Bali. I joined them for dinner at an Indian place and we had a fun night. One of them had been to Tibet about 5 years ago, so we exchanged emails and had an interesting discussion of our experiences there.

After dinner, went to bed! Was exhausted....

This morning (29th) enjoyed another lovely breakfast by the pool and rice fields. Had another massage and body scrub by the same nice woman as the other day (Kadek Kartini at the Cendana). After the same massage as on the 27th, she put a mixture of spices and creams on me. It smelled like a sweet floral curry. After it dried, she rubbed it off, doing a major skin exfoliation. Then, off to the bath sequence again. This afternoon after I finish up at the internet cafe : ) I will be trying out a different place for a massage. With the prices so low and the quality so high, I feel obligated to try out as many places as possible! : )

It is cooler today and the harvest in the rice fields next to my hotel is continuing. The plastic bags tied to sticks stuck in the ground to scare of the birds (Balinese scarecrows) are waving in the wind.
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