Sensory Overload

Well, I have made it to Jerusalem and to my hostel. The past 48 hours have been both bad and good all at the same time. Air France was wonderful and got me where I needed to get each time. In any case, I met up in Paris with another volunteer who is from Brooklyn, Shaheen. The airport in Tel Aviv wasn't quite as bad as everyone warned. Although poor Shaheen, who is a Muslim Indian, was constantly pulled over for random checks, of which there were many. The woman at passport control obviously thought I was

Damascus Gate

lying about my intention of just being a tourist here in Israel and started quizing me on tourist sites and hotels, etc. Little did she know that she was up against a master herself. I asked her NOT to stamp my passport to show I'd been to Israel--well, she did anyways. Oh well.

Jerusalem from the Jewish Quarter

My baggage arrived but completely drenched in some sticky liquid that exploded from within my bag. So I already have started my trip with sticky and dirty clothes--those of you who have done the backpacking thing--clean laundry is a sacred commodity! So I've been living in the same clothes for 3 days now. Shaheen's bags didn't arrive at all, so I guess I'm the lukcy one!

So after being yelled at in Hebrew by taxi drivers in front of the airport (because we didn't want their private and costly service), we found the shared sherut taxis that are a mere $10 to Jerusalem. It was only about a 30 minute drive. The scenery reminds me a lot of California, lots of palm trees with some sand thrown in, very hilly with these sprawling housing developments all lit up on the peaks of the hills (I'd later learn that these are the Jewish settlements). All in all, the roads and whatnot are very modern and all signs are in Hebrew, Arabic and English. I tried desperately to see the signs of chaos and war that are splashed on the nightly news, but my search was in vain. We didn't even encounter a single checkpoint. We knew from others' experiences that most of the sherut drivers will not drop you off at the Damascus Gate, as this is the entrance to the Muslim quarter. So we were dropped at the New Gate and made our way down the hill for a short 5 minute walk to the Damascus Gate. We were to stay at Faisel hostel and the directions stated "with your back to the gate, the hostel is across the street and on the right hand side." Well, I have a tradition of getting horribly lost in each new city I arrive in (this happened 100% of the time on my previous backpacking adventure in Europe), and this would be no different! I assumed incorrectly that the hostel was inside the walled city, so I positioned myself with my back to the gate and began walking forward. We soon found ourselves lost in the labrynth of streets and allies of the Muslim quarter. The streets were empty as it was after dark on a Friday night. About 45 minutes later we found someone who told us that the hostel was just OUTSIDE of the walled city. Go figure. So we made it to our hostel eventually, safe and sound.

What can I say, the hostel is a convergence of strange characters from all over the world...this is THE place for volunteers for the Palestinian movement. Many smelly European hippies (my favorite!) and lots and lots of cigarette smoke. I won't lie, the hostel is pretty dumpy--but a dump with character. By the way, Jerusalem is just

as cold as NY right now...in the high 20s/30s. And the hostel has no heating source but a small oven in the common room. So I slept in two shirts, a fleece vest, snowboarding jacket, gloves, hat and then neatly bundled myself in my lifesaving sleeping bag. We met several more volunteers from France and Italy and went for falafels. I have a feeling after this trip I will never want to eat another falafel again! It's interesting to already see political views being played out. I suggested that we go to

Zion Square just a short 10 minute walk from where we are based. Here is a bustling downtown of cafes and shops and restaurants. The Italians did not want to go b/c they said that they don't want to be around groups of Israelis b/c they fear there will be a bombing. I felt quite the opposite, that a large area like that is heavily patrolled and maybe a tad bit more safe than the dark alleys of the Muslim quarter that we wandered. But to each his own...and I am sure there will be many more of these learning

experiences to come, especially since most of the people here appear to be MUCH more radical than I in my views. I think I maintain a pretty good balance for the most part, trying to understand each side and their issues. The folks here are very anti-Israeli. As an American, you learn to separate the everyday people from their head of state's policies...since I am a prime example of an American who can't stand her country's leadership.

It's now 5:30am and I can't sleep. But its not so bad being woken by the early calls to prayer at the Mosques. As the title indicates, I am on absolute sensory overload right now. I can't even begin to describe the feeling of being here. Seeing the ancient city walls all lit up is just beautiul with the bustle of traffic and vendors selling corn on the cob and veggies. Oh, and lots of carpets to be bought as well! There are no women

to be seen anywhere (I am certain this had to do with the fact that it was well after dark), just lots and lots of young men. I believe roughly 65% of the Palestinin population is under the age of 25. They love to yell out their few English sayings "Bye bye America", "I like you the American girls", "Welcome to my country", and other various kissing noises, etc. (the usual).