Bike Around the Rock
Trip Start
Oct 09, 2006
1
3
Trip End
Oct 09, 2009
Alofi,
Niue
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Niue is roughly rugby ball shaped, and 64km in circumference. Think of it as a watch face with north at 12 o'clock and south at 6 o'clock, then the capital, Alofi, is at 9 o'clock. Niue has a strong community spirit and a sense of values which makes it a very peaceful place. The locals don't lock anything, including houses and cars. There is no need to.
Geographically Niue is very different to most Pacific islands
Matapa Chasm Niue
. Niue is the remains of an ancient volcano. As it rises steeply out of deep ocean the sea swells are big, and huge waves crash against vertical cliffs that surround most of the island. Beaches are almost non-existent. This makes for a visually stunning coastline and some of the world's best diving.But my mission today is land based. I haven't done any real riding for years so I was a bit apprehensive about suddenly charging 64km in the tropics. If you also have that challenge, why not do some shorter warm up rides on your first couple of days before you take on the circumnavigation?
Gear. Alofi Rentals www.alofirentals.nu and Niue Rentals www.niuerentals.nu , both in Alofi, rent out bikes for about NZ$10 per day. Sturdy machines and well maintained. Matavai Resort (8 o'clock), the largest accommodation on Niue with 24 rooms, offer bikes to guests.
Road condition. The round-the-island coast-road is largely flat, just with an occasional up and down. Very kind. It is mostly sealed. Where it isn't, it's still a smooth compacted coral surface, so no problems for a mountain bike. Just watch out for occasional pot holes that can pop up even in the seal. Wouldn't want to hit the bigger ones at speed. There are very few cars (I think I saw less than 10 in a 5 hour circumnavigation). Speed limit is 60km/hr, and the cars are respectful. I told you it is a cyclist's paradise.
Course. Grab a free Jason's map from the Tourism office in Alofi, which tells you all you need to know (there aren't many roads). I headed north from Alofi (9 o'clock remember), towards the highest point on the island (at 12 o'clock). This clockwise approach worked for me because it felt then like the 20km run down the east coast of the island (12 o'clock to 6 o'clock) had a slight downhill bias. You will run through a number of villages en route. If it's a Sunday, church bells will be ringing and people will be out in Sunday best, painting a pretty picture. You may be greeted by the odd dog but just put on a little speed - they quickly realize you're not worth their effort in these tropical conditions. I wanted to avoid the midday sun, so hit the road at 0630 (first light in winter, June). I didn't even see the sun until I was already a quarter way round, and it didn't get hot until I was ¾ way round. The east coast run is mostly through lush tropical forest that shades the road at all times except the middle of the day. Very pleasant and picturesque.
On the way. There are some spectacular coastal features such as the Talava Arches (11 o'clock) and the Togo Chasm (4 o'clock). However, you will lose at least an hour walking to them from the road and back - so factor this in if you want to be back before noon. The Matapa Chasm (pictured, also 11 o'clock) is pretty and just a 5 minute walk from the road. Just take the left hand branch of the track to get there (right hand branch is to Talava Arches). There are numerous other short sea tracks down to the coast which are very well signposted on the road.
Refreshments. I'm sure I'm not the only cyclist in the world who finds the reflective time in the saddle an opportunity to think about what next to put in my stomach. Well - you'd better take all your necessary basics with you because there isn't much once you leave the capital of Alofi. My 1 litre water bottle was more than enough to see me round even on a sunny day (although it would be a few degrees warmer in the summer). Your Jason's map shows Taki's Ice-cream Parlour (5 o'clock), which sounds inviting after more than 2 hours on the road. The people there are very friendly, if you can find it. The Parlour isn't sign-posted and looks just like all the other houses in the village. You'll need to knock on a door or two for directions. Washaway Café (7 o'clock) is situated in a pretty little bay just off the road and has a lot of character being made out of drift wood and surrounding rocks. Opens at 11am on Sundays. A great bar but doesn't actually have any cafe. Israel's Ice Cream Parlour 1km to the north boasts "the best ice cream on the island". I can't dispute it because he doesn't open until 2pm on a Sunday. But back in Alofi, Mamatos Ice Cream cum Niue Yacht Club deliver on their promise. Better still, fine espresso, topped off by ice cold Speights in the garden overlooking our wonderful Pacific Ocean (picture).
Competitive riders might like to consider the "Rally Around the Rock" which takes place annually about May. www.niueisland.com for details on events, accommodation, and everything.
Well, brace for a cringe, because I have to say it. Niue, for cyclists, you Rock.
For more of my travels around the South Pacific, check out Tony`s Blog www.south-pacific.travel/blog.
