Rapa Nui
Trip Start
Dec 28, 2006
1
61
135
Trip End
Dec 2007
Rapa Nui,
Chile
Tuesday, April 24, 2007
The nights here get very dark and we got the best nights sleep in a long time
01 - Downtown Hanga Roa
. So refreshed every morning we had a good few days of exploring the island. On the first day we took a 4X4 tour so we could see the more distant parts of the island. We first stopped at ahus (ceremonial platforms) that had fallen moai (the famous statues). All the moai had been toppled by 1860 due to clan fighting and the like so any that are now standing have been restored. Not only that but only a few now have eyes and these are all modern as the old eyes are gone. Also, the moai used to be painted in flesh colours so we will never know what they really looked like back in the day. However some reports from passing ships said that a number of the Rapa Nui people had white skin and red hair just like T. There's a wee history lesson for you. We were told by our excellent guide that the ahu were built inside villages with the important people living closest to them as the moai represented revered ancestors and were linked to authority and protection (all but one of the moai on the island face inland to protect their villages and descendants) and magic. We also saw the foundations of the Rapa Nui peoples long, low unturned-boat shaped houses and other important village sites. We visited another similar site but this time the moai had been broken and a severed head lay all by itself.. We then headed to Rano Raraku, where all the moai had been carved, we saw lots all in different stages of construction and then hiked to the top of the volcanic crater to get a great view of the island. Then we headed down to Tangariki, the famous 15 standing moai all standing proud and an magnificent sight
02 - Our hostel's driveway
. They really are massive and so impressive. We had two more stops that day at the navel of the world (which the Rapa Nui people thought the island to be) and Anakena - another famous ahu, 5 moai with topknots in place and a lovely sandy beach. A paddle in the ocean, a lovely dinner and then to bed rounded off a perfect day.The new day we were going to go cycling round the island but it rained so we entertained ourselves with craft markets (including a stuffed puffer-fish - one of the weirdest souvenirs we had seen on our travels) and eating the best empanadas and chips ever while watching the waves crash against the island. So our bike adventure was delayed until the next day when we saddled up and headed off to explore on our own. We saw many standing moai close to town, once of which had eyes and topknot and was a wonderful sight. As close as you will get to how they looked in days of yore. We then visited the museum which was really interesting but a bit heavy on the reading - just too much info to take in in one sitting. Then a long hard ride over dirt tracks to see an old village, a fortified cave system and more moai - you never get tired of seeing those. Many of the ahu are situated right on cliff edges and you get an amazing view of the ocean. After a long ride back we decided to take it easy for the rest of the day.
03 - Our first Moai
Our last full day there started of with a hike up a volcano accompanied by two very friendly dogs. It was incredible and we stood on the rim of the crater and looked down into an enormous lake. There was a big gap on one side of the crater rim which allowed us fantastic views of the Pacific. We followed a wee path on over the rim to the cliffs where we then entered Orongo ceremonial village. There are loads of little shelters where people stayed during the annual Birdman contest. Competitors abseiled down the cliff, swam to a islet nearby and tried to get the first egg of the sooty tern and return it to Orongo to become the Birdman and chief of the island for that year. It is a beautiful place and we really enjoyed our walk around it and views down the tall cliffs to the Pacific and islet below. Then the walk back and a relaxing afternoon in the sun outside our room in our tropical surroundings - heavenly! Our time here was finished off by a little walk outside town to sit in front of the moai and watch the sun set into the Pacific behind them.
This is a perfect, amazing and indescribable place so steeped in history, myth and magic. We had a perfect time here and just can't describe how much we loved it or how wonderful it felt to be there. If you ever get the chance .. go!
Comments
Hard Rock Hallelujah!
That has got to be the best hard rock SATHBM style pic I have seen :D
The island looks great. I'd love to see it but it seems like it's in the middle of nowhere. Then again maybe that has an attraction all of it's own...