Soppong
Trip Start
Jan 02, 2009
1
12
15
Trip End
Jun 30, 2009
Soppong, Thailand
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Laced with mountains and rice-paddy farms, the landscape of northern Thailand is breathtaking. But in order to get anywhere, take your dramamine, because the mountain highways are windy and steep, and the drivers fear nothing. We spent six nights in Soppong, and loved every second. It's a nature lover's paradise, and a trip to this region is full of hiking, trekking, caving, swimming in the rivers, riding elephants, and hanging out.
One of our first days here, we grabbed the map and walked to "Coffin Cave." After careful inspection of the map, we noticed several Coffin Caves in the vicinity. Archeologists speculate that about two to three thousand years ago a culturally-distinct civilization lived in these areas and buried their dead in teak-coffins in the plethora of caves in these parts. Close to our hotel was just such a Coffin Cave, so we climbed around and saw three caverns with coffins in them.
We also went to Tham Lot Cave, which is in most of the guidebooks. We had to get a motor-bike taxi for 70 baht each to take us the 9 km from Soppong to the cave. Then, we paid 150 baht for a guide (compulsory) and 300 baht for the bamboo raft ride into the cave because a river runs through the cave. We saw three caverns, the last containing coffins. Then, we let our guide go to wait the two hours until dusk for the evening show of swifts and bats that enter and exit the cave. It is a sight not to be missed, if you are into that kind of stuff. The birds gather meters above the ground and circle and circle in the air, and then, in a group effort, swoosh inside the cave. Bats counter them by flying out of the cave for the night. It lasts for over an hour, and is one of those sweet, simple acts of nature that you feel lucky and blessed to witness.
By the time we got finished, there were no more rides left in the parking lot. So, we walked up to Cave Lodge, the closest hotel to the cave, and asked if we could have dinner and then catch a ride back into Soppong. The ex-pat owner said that would be fine, but the ride would cost 300 baht. I had already heard of this place, and on principle, I feel his charging money for a hitch-hike goes against his self-proclaimed vagabond ways. We paid for the ride, but didn't have dinner. So there.
Another day we took the bus further northwest into Mae Hon Song just to walk around and have some lunch. The town is much bigger than Soppong, but still pretty laid back. We had a relaxing lunch by the small lake in the city-center, checked out some temples, and walked up the mountain to the overlook. It was on this journey that we met the "crazy man on the bus." To be fair, he gave himself that nickname. He drew pictures of flowers with pastels, drank moon-shine out of a water bottle, and loved Tony's beard. He gave us one of his drawings, which as soon as I get home I am having professionally framed to put over a mantle.
Last full day in Soppong, we got a ride from our hotel's owner down to Pai. If we weren't staying in Soppong, we would stay in Pai. It's between Soppong and Mae Hon Song in terms of development, but relaxing in it's own way. The goal for that day was the elephant ride. We went to Joy's Elephant Camp and rode her elephant for about an hour and had the best time.
What can I say? It was pure joy. The last half of the ride was playing with her in the river. We would get on her back, and she would try and throw us off. And then we would get back on, and she would try and throw us off. And then we would get back on, and then she would squirt us with water from her nose. And the she would throw us off. And then we would get back on...
Life is good.
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